Basement Floor Cleanout

[Scott Alger]

Greetings from Chicago

This is my first post here.

I have a large Elm tree in the front yard which is causing
no end of problems in the main sewer line which runs underneath
this tree.Roots and more roots.I have decided to install a 6"
cleanout in the front of the basement floor so I can get at least a
4" cutter on the sewer rodder and cut the roots back better.
I have rodded this line 3 times in the past 10 months but only with
a small cutter because the present cleanout is on the 4" stack pipe
I'm thinking a 6" clay "Y" on the pipe but what do I come up
to the floor with? 6' Iron or clay? and what goes on top flush
with the floor for the cleanout access etc...
I'm no stranger to sewer work but this is one I haven't done before.

Thanks for any suggestions or thoughts or advice or whatever.

Scott Alger

[srdenny]

How about replacing the line? While you're at it, remove the offending trees.

[Scott Alger]

Ha Ha Ha Ha

[Scott Alger]

Better yet, bring a shovel, I'll supply the beer

[nu2plumbingsf]

I had the same problem with a australian tea tree planted right over the sewer line. Cost me $400 a year to clean out sewer line. My solution for a short time was to use root killer (Root-X),which worked but eventually the tree had to go. Around here some plumbers advocate replacing sewer line with special type of impregnated material or root repellant but its costly. Best bet is to remove tree and use root killer than run cutter.

[Bob NH]

Greetings from Chicago

I have decided to install a 6" cleanout in the front of the basement floor so I can get at least a
4" cutter on the sewer rodder and cut the roots back better. I have rodded this line 3 times in the past 10 months but only with
a small cutter because the present cleanout is on the 4" stack pipe I'm thinking a 6" clay "Y" on the pipe but what do I come up
to the floor with? 6' Iron or clay? and what goes on top flush with the floor for the cleanout access etc...
Scott Alger

You need to be sure the cutter going into the 4" line is not going to hang up on the 6x4 reduction from the cleanout.

I don't know what the standard is for flush in the floor, but I would bring it up at 45 degrees without an elbow; make the top of the diameter below finished floor level, and then put in a filler device to cover it and make the hole flush.

Depending on how complex you want to get, you could put in a ring with a commercial manhole cover, or you could cast something with concrete and then cast a cover to fit. I would probably make a cast concrete opening as part of the floor (round or elliptical is better than with sharp corners because it won't be as likely to crack) and then, using the hole as a mold (with a little taper and something to make a little clearance and keep the concrete from bonding) cast a cover with a flush bolt or nut for lifting it.