Bigger washer drain - 1.5 to 2"

**tkeahi** · 02-14-2007, 12:42 AM

My washing machine presently drains into a copper 1.5" standpipe which goes though a CMU wall and tees into a vertical 1.5" copper drain (see attached picture). At the slab the copper connects to cast iron in what looks to be a lead and oakum joint. Right at the joint it actually looks like 2" copper pipe connected with a reducer to the 1.5".

I'd like to make it all 2" so that I can add a laundry sink and eventually a kitchen sink, but first I need to figure out the easiest way to adapt the cast to 2" ABS pipe.

I've searched the forums and found lots of good information on drilling/replacing lead and oakum joints, but I was wondering if there is an easier way: Can I just unsolder the reducer (I hope that's a reducer I'm looking at) and then use a coupler to connect 2" ABS to the copper stub?

Assuming I can get it all changed over to 2" pipe, my plan is a 2x2x2 tee directed through the original, enlarged hole in the hollow tile wall and a 2x1.5x1.5 tee on top of that to go to the laundry sink. Is there any other way to do it so that I don't have to drill a new hole through the concrete masonry unit wall?

All of this is in a single story, 40 year old house. Thanks for any advice or tips you might have.

Full size pic here:
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...mbing001-1.jpg

**Cass** · 02-14-2007, 05:14 AM

If you do have a reducer coupling taking it from 2" down to 1.5" and you can remove it and still have a 2" nipple you can get a banded coupling that is specifically for going from 2" copper to 2" PVC and run 2" to the washer box. When the code was 1.5" they saved $$$ by reducing down to 1.5" instead of running 2" all the way.