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Thread: Basement Shower Drain..enough space?

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    DIY Junior Member aviator53's Avatar
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    Default Basement Shower Drain..enough space?

    I have a new home with a rough-in in the basement. I want to put just a shower in on the concrete floor but the rough-in for the drain is 4 3/4" from the metal stud wall to the center of the PVC pipe. Overall dimensions of shower will be about 70"x46". Question #1 is will I have enough room for the drain and #2 is will the slope be a bit unusual if I use the standard 1/4" per foot for over 5 feet? Should I just give in and break the concrete and move the drain towards the center? Thanks.
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    Last edited by aviator53; 02-10-2007 at 05:03 PM.

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    Homeowner geniescience's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by aviator53
    .... want to put just a shower in on the concrete floor....
    Many solutions, all easy, or easy enough (not earthshattering, not numbskull easy). Some of them actually look better than a center drain floor.

    First, aviator, what do you feel comfortable with? How much urgency is this project? And how did you end up with two stud channels side by side next to a drain?

    David

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    DIY Junior Member aviator53's Avatar
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    I feel comfortable trying just about anything. I would like to get it done sooner than later, in fact i would like to start tomorrow! The stud channels are next to each other because to the right of the drain, out of the pic, is an i-beam support which the framer enclosed by doubling up that wall of the bathroom.
    Last edited by aviator53; 02-10-2007 at 06:57 PM.

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    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    Well, I think you really need to move that drain!

    At 70" direction, you will need about 3/4" of fall. You normally try to have the wall height the same all the way around the shower, so that means you need to make the entire 3/4" in the 4-1/2", thus ending up with a very steep and weird looking slope - dangerous, too. One thing not visible either is where the vent is?

    Check out www.johnbridge.com for a lot of tiling expertise and help.
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

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    DIY Junior Member aviator53's Avatar
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    I thought the slope might look a bit odd but functional. I guess I just hate to admit I should move the drain. There is a vent further down the line, one for the sink and then one in the sump/crock that pumps up to the overhead main line out to the septic system.

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    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    EACH trap needs a vent, although you can tie them together above the flood plane of the sink - 42" is often quoted.
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

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    DIY Junior Member aviator53's Avatar
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    Default Update

    OK, I have spent a few hours and about $90 and I have moved the drain to center it in the 70x46 space...I thnk it was the right thing to do. Any tips on filling in the area around the new pipe? And as far as framing, I was thinking of using 2x10 as blocking in between the studs to have enough material to attach the membrane. I'll take any advice on this project. Thanks.
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    Last edited by aviator53; 02-11-2007 at 04:09 PM.

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    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    Can't tell if you have a P-trap there or just an elbow. It needs to be a P-trap.
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

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    DIY Junior Member aviator53's Avatar
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    There was an existing p-trap...at the top of the pic. Should I have taken out the original p-trap and put a new one directly under the new drain location? I do have a slight slope from the drain towards the p-trap.

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    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    The trap needs to be moved...it should be under the center of the drain otherwise, any hair, soap, or other crud that accumulates along that run will be able to fester and smell. The trap blocks that, but only if it is close to the drain opening.
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

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    DIY Junior Member aviator53's Avatar
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    Thanks for the help as this is new territory for me. What should I take into consideration as far as height and slope of the new p-trap in relation to joining the existing drainline? Just make sure it slopes down toward that drainline?

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    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    You want the vertical part of the p-trap to be plumb or getting the drain right is a pain. You want the horizontal outlet of the p-trap to be sloping 1/4" down its entire length.

    Have you considered using Kerdi from www.schluter.com for your shower? Makes life easier since you can use drywall to do the walls, and you only need the preslope rather than preslope, liner, then final slope before you can tile. Makes a better shower, and quicker.
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

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    DIY Junior Member aviator53's Avatar
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    Thanks again, that is what I thought but it is always good to get an experienced confirmation.
    Looking at the Kerdi system and the size shower I am building (gross dimension 70x46) I assume I would have to get the 72x72 kit and cut it to fit?
    Any idea what their system would cost??

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    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    You don't need the premade shower pan - it can be a time saver if it fits. There isn't much leaway in the placement of the drain relative to the pan. You should only use the pan if you can use it whole, the drain is in the exact location required, or cut it down symetrically; otherwise, make your preslope out of deck mud (think beach sand with cement in it). If you can get an exact match, then it should work. then, cover it with the Kerdi membrane.

    To do this, you also need their drain - don't try it with a generic one.

    Check out www.johnbridge.com for more info. You may be able to find the material locally, or their site has a source that usually comes out better in price, but not always.
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

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    DIY Junior Member aviator53's Avatar
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    I have read through the posts and info on that website...lots of good info. I think I will proceed with builiding it myself. For the preslope my floor will slope approximately 3/4" from the framing to the drain. The lip on the metal floor channel is about 1 1/4" so could I construct my shower base just using the channel as a guide-snapping a 3/4" line around-or would you put some other material down first?

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