Oatey brass no-caulk shower drain

I'll be using an Oatey brass no-caulk shower drain in my bathroom project. I test fit the drain on a piece of 2" PVC to see how well it grips the pipe. I noticed when tightening the caulk ring nut that it starts to bind against the rubber caulking ring and makes it difficult to get it tight enough. Should I apply a lubricant between the no-caulk ring and the ring nut? If so, what should I use? Soap? Last question - how tight is tight enough? If it leaks it ruins my first floor ceiling.

Thanks,
Richard

I'm far from an expert, so I can't answer your question. But I am past the drain stage of my bathroom project. So I ask you a question, why not just use a pvc drain? Seems to me you would have less worries about leaks. I was amazed at how strong the chemicals bond the pvc. They sell a complete kit at the retailers.

Access.

1) It would be immpossible to get the shower pan in place before the glue dries.

2) No way to back up the pipe/trap so that sufficient force could be applied to properly seat the pipe into the drain fitting - without eliminating the little bit of "adjustment" movement that PVC gives.

3) It's too permanent. If repairs are ever needed in the future the whole mess would need to be cut apart.

4) Brass looks much better than white plastic on my Biscuit colored floor.

Other than that, I can't think of a single reason.

That's a lot of good reasons.
I have access below my tub. I used PVC and a piece of Fernco coupling to increase the adjustability and make it easier to disassemble in the future. The visible portion of the drain is available in chrome, brass, brush.

Answer for Oatey drain question?

"bump" for Richard's question....

Should I use any type of "lubricant" when tightening down the internal nut on the rubber "donut" or ring in the Oatey no caulk drain?

(I did make sure to tighten the nut on the bottom and use thread sealer to help make sure it doesn't work loose.)

Thanks!
Jim