Reply With QuotePerhaps it's an optical illusion because of the angle, but the trap arm on the slop sink looks like it's going uphill.............
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Here are some pictures showing the installation I already completed of a new utility sink. The old concrete sink was cracked in half and leaking, and it was covered with paint that was flaking off in big pieces and helping to clog the drain. My wife complains about cleaning the paintbrushes in the kitchen. With a decent faucet down there I may actually be able to clean my paintbrushes at the utility sink:
Here's the new sink with a closeup of the drain. You can count the slipjoints. There's a bunch:
Since I was posting pictures I also included a picture of the kitchen sink that's up next for replacement. You can see that the existing installation is done entirely with sch 40 (except for the tailpieces) and has two traps. The drain line disappears into the floor and the bottom half shows how the pipes connect in the basement.
Note that the presence of the window means there's not a lot of room down there.
Perhaps it's an optical illusion because of the angle, but the trap arm on the slop sink looks like it's going uphill.............
Now that I like
seeing. A kitchen sink faucet instead of a laundry tub faucet.
Reason?
See that short piece of hose connected to the laundry tub spout? That right there is notorious for a potential cross-connection. (Below flood level rim) Just about every time I go to someone's house there is usually a hose connected to the spout hanging down in the bottom of the tub.
A small leak on either cold or hot and a reversal of flow and you have contaminates in your potable water system.
That faucet installed will never have a garden hose attached to it, the likelihood of it hanging down into the tub is less of a chance and there is a backflow device integrated into the faucet itself.
Good work daniel son. :thumbsup:
Last edited by Dunbar Plumbing; 02-05-2007 at 09:29 AM.
Read what the end of this sentence means.
I checked the trap arm with a level and it definitely slopes down hill (though I'm not sure if it slopes downhill by the proper amount).
The old utility sink faucet was unusable without the hose attached. With the hose it was barely usable. The odd thing is that I got advised by the guy at the plumbing supply store as well as by one plumbing book that it was impossible to install a kitchen faucet on a utility sink because the holes in the utility sink are supposedly in the wrong place. (My utility sink came with no holes predrilled so I could install whatever kind of faucet I wanted.)
I always use a kitchen sink on a laundry tray.
Two ways:
I get a single hole version, and use a soap dispenser for the second hole.
I get a single hole version, with side spray for the second hole.
It's much nicer for things like washing paint trays.
When you come to re-doing the kitchen sink, please make allowances for including a vent...Originally Posted by adrianmariano
The current setup does not have one - It would not pass code....
How close to the sink does the vent have to be? It appears that could be a vent on the C.I. pipe in the second, under the floor photo.
Rancher
If that branch for the kitchen stayed horizontal, the c.i. pipe going up could be a vent. Since the kitchen drain line goes vertical, that c.i. riser can't be a vent for the kitchen.
WHY? Looks like it vents the kitchen sink to me... not dealing with an s-trap...whats the deal? I'd say it's not "ideal" but that it does vent that line.
looks like an "S" trap to me
if the 90 was replaced by a tee and the vent took off from there it would be kosher......
Just because you aren't paranoid doesn't mean they aren't out to get you...
yep, remove the 90 after the trap and install a T, Fem. Adp. an AAV and its alllll gooood.
I believe the requirement is that the connection to the vent pipe must be higher than the water level in the trap being vented. Since in this case the connection to the vent pipe is a couple feet below the trap, that requirement is not met by my installation, hence my installation does not qualify as vented.
I guess we've been lucky since we only rarely have noticed an unpleasant odor coming from the sink. My plan is to put in an AAV to fix it.
I am a bit puzzled, though, because it appears like the plumbing was actually designed wrong when the house was built in 1954, and everyone in the neighborhood will have the same problem. Did they not understand venting in 1954? (In principle the kitchen was inspected when it was remodeled 11 years ago, which would have been an opportunity to fix it. I know the electrical was inspected, but maybe not the plumbing? In my area they are very lax about permits and inspections.)
Since I was confused about what an "S" trap really was, I went and looked it up, and it answered my question, Randy's question and the plumbing code question... Here's the Link:
http://www.usinspect.com/plumbing/VentsTraps.asp
That pretty much says it all.
Rancher
I've seen some talk about 17 gauge or 20 gauge P-traps. What does this gauge designation mean? Does it apply to the tubular plastic traps?
I have approximately a 15" separation between the drains on my double basin kitchen sink. Is it preferable to use a center outlet drain or an end outlet drain? (Mr. Cauldwell thinks the center outlet drains are less reliable. Is he wrong about this too?)
The lower the number, the thicker the material.
I prefer to use an end outlet.....
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