Link to Goulds service manual. Most of it will apply to any brand of pump.Originally Posted by ladyalaskan
First, get a digital multimeter (voltmeter. ohmmeter) at Sears, Radioshack, HD, or somewhere. They cost $10 to $50 in the lower 48, maybe more in Alaska. I didn't see one when I was in the shopping center in Chicken a few years ago, or in Talkeetna, so if you are near there, you might have to borrow a meter from someone. If you have to borrow a meter, I suggest that you ask the meter owner to come with it because it will be quicker than if you have to learn to use it.
I also like to have a clamp-on ammeter but they cost more and you may not have a lot of use for it. An electrician should have one.
It appears that you have a submersible pump (because you have a control box). The following discussion is based on a standard control box. If you have a Pump-Tec or something like that, then read the manual for it and get back to us.
Do you have a 120 or 240 volt system? Do you know that the pump is wired for the system voltage? Almost all submersibles have 240 Volt motors.
1. Take the cover off the control box and check to see if you have power at input terminals of the control box. If you have 240 Volts across those terminals, then go to STEP 5.
2. If no power at the Line side of the control box, then go to the pressure switch. The contacts of the pressure switch should be closed. If you have power at the switch LOAD terminals, then the problem is in the wiring from there to the control box.
3. If you have no power (no 240 Volts) at the LOAD terminals of the pressure switch, check the LINE terminals. There should also be 120 Volts from EACH of the line terminals to ground. If you have power at the line terminals but not at the load terminals, then the pressure switch is defective of the setting is messed up somehow. The switch should be closed if you have no pressure or if pressure is lower than the START setting.
4. If no power at the LINE terminals of the pressure switch, check the breaker. If it is a 240 Volt system, then the 2-pole breaker should read 240 Volts at the terminals.
5. With the power on, check the voltage between the black-yellow and red-yellow terminals on the OUTPUT of the control box. They are probably zero. If not zero, then the pump is probably running and you probably have a broken or disconnected pipe in the well.
NOTE: Some control boxes disconnect the power from the pump when the cover is off. Take that into consideration when doing the test described below.
6. If there is no voltage on the outlet, then look for an OVERLOAD RESET button on the case of the control. If you find such a button, push it hard. If it clicks and/or you hear noises in the control box, check the output terminal voltages again. If the overload trips again, then something is wrong in the system, such as wrong voltage pump or supply, or pump jammed, or something else.
7. Turn off the power at the breaker and turn it on again while someone is at the control box. See if that causes the output of the control box to have voltage, even momentarily.
8. If it still doesn't work, then with the power off, measure the resistance (black to yellow and red to yellow) from the table in the Goulds manual. They shoud be higher than the values in the table to account for the wire from control box to the pump.
If you haven't found the problem with all of this, tell us what you found and we can try some more things.