Height to stub outs....

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Randyj

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I've done lots and lots of plumbing repairs and remodeling. Every time I install a fixture I go to a kitchen sink or bathroom sink or whatever and measure from the floor to the drain and water stub outs to figure out where to put the new stub outs.... okay guys... what's "normal" on these things and anything else in normal new construction?
 

Plumb or Die

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Here's a wormcan

Tons of stuff to consider. Type of fixture, kind of drain, handicapped requirements, counter height. Etc. I'm sure the next post will give you the typical measurements, most fixture companies print rough-in books with this info.
 

Terry

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On 30" counters I used 18"

On 32" counters I used 20"

On 36" counters I used 24"
If you are a little lower than these, then you can use longer tailpieces.

Kitchens with 7" bowls, I used to use 19" on the waste and 22" on the water supply

Now kitchen sinks are coming deeper, so you will need to drop everything lower depending on the bowls.
A 10" bowl could be 16" on the waste and 19" on the water.

Of course, if you have the spec sheet with the sink, that should tell you too.
 

Shacko

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Stub outs

Randyj said:
I've done lots and lots of plumbing repairs and remodeling. Every time I install a fixture I go to a kitchen sink or bathroom sink or whatever and measure from the floor to the drain and water stub outs to figure out where to put the new stub outs.... okay guys... what's "normal" on these things and anything else in normal new construction?

There are no so-called normal rough-ins, they have to be calulated to the installation. If you don't want to figure how high they should be, put them low and they will work, too high and you are fxxked. Lots of luck.

...........................................................
"If all else fails, read the directions"
 

Randyj

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Thanks guys. I've done a lot of tub swap outs and have had to raise the mixer, spout, and shower head in virtually every single one. On the one I did last week the instructions/spec sheet suggested 32" to the valves and 23" to the spout which worked out great...but still I had to figure out everything and it cost me a couple of hours when I needed to get back home 125 miles away for a family emergency. The customer was surprised but not upset when I added $120 to the bill.... She paid cash and still wants me back next week to finish the drywall, paint, and rip up the carpet and install tile.
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SRdenny

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Double compartment sinks with disposals are tricky for height, especially with a clean out directly below, but for left to right location as well. Some of the european sinks have their drains situated in the back of the sink, making for a tight fit.
But the real treat is the triple compartment sink.
Add a disposal, insta hot tank and water filter. Then listen to the customer complain about there being no room to put their garbage can.
 

Randyj

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Srd... reminds me of this customer... I had to put in a new toilet after doing the tub so colors would match and make it "pretty"... then she was surprised when I told her that I'll have to pull it again to put down the tile next week... "Well why didn't you tell me!" .... I just told her "mam... I just do as I'm told" So... if they want a place to put garbage cans... "it wasn't on the work order!"
 

Solsacre

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Okay.......... agree with everyone........ too high bad..... too low okay.


Standared for me?

21" lav

16" k-sink

14" laundry tub

but each install changes my standards.

Now I put the waters just above the drain.



dances-with-pumps
 

Randyj

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Biggest issue I've been having is deciding how to do this on new construction where there are no specs for the plumbing. Seems that some of these builders and architects are plumb ignorant when it comes to plumbing....and they want me to give them a price for doing the job (from the drawings or on a "per fixture" price)...and not have exact specs on what's going in the house.
 
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