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Steady Water Pressure !
Dear friends
I got a problem I don't know if you can help me..
The water mains pressure is low and I have fixed a booster pump with a pressure tank and a pressure switch
My target is that when I open the water tap I want to have a STEADY reasonable pressure but the present situation is that when the pump cuts in I get a momentary hiccup which results in a change of the proportions and mixing of hot water to cold water when I have a shower and that results in having shocks of cold mixture or hot mixture during the shower AT EACH TIME THE PUMP CUTS IN , very annoying
Do you have any idea how to maintain a steady pressure from that system?
Or at least fix something to make the pump runs as soon as you open any water tap , because as long as the pump is running the water pressure is steady
Thank you very very much in advance for your time and help
Bob
If you dont have the air pressure precharge correct to the pressure switch cut-in setting that might caue the problem. It should be 1-2 psi less than the cut in with no water in the tank. I.E. 30/50gets 29-28 psi air pressure with no water in the tank. That means you drain the tank, otherwise you don't get the proper volume of air in the tank.
Click Here to learn how to correctly size or program a water softener.
You said each time the pump cuts in. Does this mean it's cycling while your in the shower? If so, you will have to set the switch higher, or use more water to keep the pump running. You may also want to consider a Cycle Stop Valve. This will keep the pressure in the home constant while the pump is running.
Tell us where you installed this pump and tank in relation to the rest of the plumbing and what brands you bought, what horsepower and type pump.
bob...
Hi Bob
[/B]Originally Posted by speedbump
I have installed the pump in the garden on the incoming water mains ( 1" pipe) and the pump is a Calpida ) 0.75 HP self priming and the pressure switch is a Square D and the pressure tank is a Calpida too. and it is feeding a flat in the second floor
As I said , as long as the pump is running the pressure is fine and steady but the problem is when it cuts in th pressure increases dramatically and consequently the setting of the shower mixture of hot and cold water changes suddenly resulting in cold or hot shocks during shower and you have to keep adjusting it all the time which is NOT practical at all and very very annoying .
I thought about installing a water tank on the roof with a floating switch fed by this pump then feeding the flat from that tank by gravity under constant head but that system has some disadvantages too , water storage problems etc..
I am looking forward to hear from you
Thank you inadvance
Bob
Bob
A storage tank on the roof would need to be 92 feet tall to give you 40 PSI in the house. A pressure regulator would have to be set at the low side of your on/off pressure switch setting and can still allow the pump to cycle on and off or dead head and burn up your pump. You need a Cycle Stop Valve. The following is a quote from a recent CSV customer. Also see the video for home owners at the following link.
http://www.cyclestopvalves.com/videos.html
Dear Cary
I have lived in a house with street pressure water for 21 years than moved to my present house on well water I could always tell where and when the pressure switch closed when I ran the water.
But now I would have to say with the CSV installed it runs as close to street like water pressure coming off a well as anyone could possibly want!!! You only feel the pressure drop once and than it is just a constant pressure with a steady flow. My family loves the new pressure system because you can run two showers and still flush the john with no chilling, burning or major pressure loss issues.
I'm sure it has to be set up right with water availability, pump max pressure, pump continuous pressure, proper CSV psi, water storage tank size and water usage in a fine balancing act to achieve the same effect as I have, but if I can achieve it anyone can with alittle help.
I got great help here ,the supply house and from CSV themselves and maybe alittle luck tossed in for good measure.
Thanks
Jeff
I have never heard of that brand Bob. But I would have never used a self primer for the job. A small 1/2hp jet pump would have worked better. It is better at making pressure but doesn't try to push so much water. The self primer would like to be flowing around 40 gpm which is impossible through a 1" pipe without tremendous friction loss. The jet would be restricted to around 10 gpm which would be better suited to your needs.
I agree with Gary, in that some plumbing problems exist to cause the fluctuations in both cold and hot lines. The only change you should see is the pressure change, not temperature. It's very possible that the CSV would be the answer to your problem.
bob...
How this CSV works and where in should be installed in the system and what setting?
It can go in the well or anywhere in the line before the tank and pressure switch.
They start out with the 1" and 1-1/4" plastic non adjustable models and go to the brass adjustable models.
For your use, the CSV1 (40, 50 or 60 preset) valve would work. Or the CSV1W or CSV1Z brass adjustable pressure valves. They are all 1" valves, good to 25 gpm.
What they do is keep the pump running while your using a gallon per minute or more. This gives you constant pressure until you shut off all valves, then it allows the tank to fill and turn the pump off.
bob...
Thanks for the good explanation Speedbump. Bob1000 has been emailing me. I am trying to help him choose the right valve. I hope he will come back here and let us know how it is working.
Me too Valveman, good reports are hard to come by. People install them love them and forget them. Although we have had a few people come back and praise the SCV's here and on my Forum. Good feedback is always a good thing.
One thing we haven't had is bad feedback about a CSV, that's also a good thing.
bob...
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