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Thread: Fernco with a Lead Pipe

  1. #1

    Default Fernco with a Lead Pipe

    I've got an elderly plumber who's been plumbing since WWII who, today, just installed a fernco union between a 1 1/2" PVC and 1 1/2" lead pipe. I asked him if the fernco would work with the soft lead pipe, and he assured me it would.

    I just did a quick web search, and, from the couple of sources I came across, it seems that my plumber might be incorrect.

    Is it possible, that with very careful tightening (not tight enough to bend the lead) that a fernco might work? My plumber's the nicest guy in the whole world, so I know he's not BSing, but I'm really crossing my fingers that he's not plain wrong.

  2. #2

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    I've never heard anything against it.... and I would use one if it fit. I don't know what other choices you would have...

  3. #3
    In the Trades Gary Swart's Avatar
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    Default

    I'm not sure about using a clamp coupling with a lead pipe, but a Fernco which is neoprene with 2 clamps, is not supposed to be used inside. You should be using a banded coupling if and I repeat, if, the lead pipe is acceptable for this type of connection. Stay tuned because there are plumber on this forum that will know the answer to that for sure.

  4. #4
    All home Improvements Austin Home Improvement's Avatar
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    Default fernco

    why didn't your man go a head and take out the rest of the lead pipe all the back to a threaded joint or just take out the hole thing and replace with pvc?

  5. #5
    All home Improvements Austin Home Improvement's Avatar
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    Default fernco

    By the way, banded couplings are junk. always try to go with glue, or threaded joints. Banded joints leak down the road.

  6. #6
    Plumber Cass's Avatar
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    Banded couplings work fine when installed properly. I have been using them for years with no problems. Where is this going that it can't all be replaced?

  7. #7
    Plumber solsacre's Avatar
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    Cut the guy some slack... when I retire I'll be less into "rip it all out" mode.

    If you can fix it good without much work....... why not?
    I'f the line was suported well I'd use a no hub and or "furnco". Threades ar always better... but I've never seen a properly installed no hub, or "furnco" leak... only the ones that are put in a bind.

    A PIPE IN A BIND IS BOUND TO COME APART...

    If it's not leaking I wouldn't think twice about the repair.

    good luck

    dances-with-pumps

  8. #8
    Master Plumber master plumber mark's Avatar
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    Talking lead drain lines

    If this is a 1 1/2 or 2 inch lead drain line of some nature,

    it takes quite a bit of pressure to bend that

    stuff and its probably going to last for another

    50 - 100 years .....as long as it had support...


    If you can simply put a FERNCO fitting on it

    and keep from getting yourself into troubles tearing out

    the whole lead drain line and god knows what else along with

    it , that is the smart way to do this.... it will last forever...

    I like the FERNCOS over the banded no -hub clamps....

    they go on very easy, and are flexible and

    much more forgiveing...


    I like to put "glue" on the lead pipe
    and on the inside of the FERNCO fitting......then tighten the
    whole thing down........you relaly have to work to pry that joint
    apart down the road...
    Last edited by master plumber mark; 01-07-2007 at 05:18 AM.

  9. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by Cass
    Banded couplings work fine when installed properly. I have been using them for years with no problems. Where is this going that it can't all be replaced?
    It's a lead drain pipe running through the kitchen ceiling, coming from a 2nd floor bathroom sink. Removing the entire pipe would pretty much involve trashing most of the kitchen ceiling.

    It's well supported. The lead pipe runs through a hole in a joist and the fernco is only a couple inches away from it. The PVC side is only about 8" until you hit the L running up to the sink.

    Thanks everyone, for all your replies. I feel better. Right now there's a small hole in the ceiling which I'm going to leave open for a while in order to monitor the union. I may end up pulling down the kitchen ceiling and replacing the entire run- We'll see.

    Regardless of what direction I take, this has been very very helpful, thanks again.

  10. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by Austin Home Improvement
    By the way, banded couplings are junk. always try to go with glue, or threaded joints. Banded joints leak down the road.
    If that's true then there's alot of extremely large buildings in a heap of trouble. Lots of places require it by code. If you are the one putting them on and they are leaking then you might need to check out your technique and be sure you are using a torque wrench. Pretty much the standard when transitioning from one type of pipe to another.

  11. #11
    DIY Senior Member molo's Avatar
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    Why did you have to do the repair in the first place? Was that the only way he could get to the toothpaste cap in the bathroom sink drain?

    Curious to know,
    Molo

  12. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by molo
    Why did you have to do the repair in the first place? Was that the only way he could get to the toothpaste cap in the bathroom sink drain?

    Curious to know,
    Molo
    no, no toothpaste cap.

    The lead pipe started to split at the connection. It was a strange connection- at the turn of an elbow. I'm sure a plumber could describe it better, but I'm not a plumber.

    It's just a thought, but an embedded vector drawing program would be great for a forum such as this (or, if that's not possible, maybe a pipe font)

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