Just installed a new Electronic Sump Switch

jackofalltradesman · Jan 19, 2007

hj said:
if it is like every other sensor probe, it turns on when water touches the probe and completes a circuit. Depending on a timer to turn the pump off however, is a very imprecise way to do it. ****GOOD***** sensors have a third probe which is the pump off point so it keeps pumping as long as the water level is between the two probe levels. The high water circuit normally only activates an alarm, it does nothing to try to start the pump if the pump on probe failed. In a two pump situation, with alternation controls, it, or something like it before it reached the high level alarm level, would try to start the second, inactive, pump.

----------------------
Baloney.
This IS a "good" sensor/switch. The timer for the pump is easily adjusted and allows one to take the water all the way down to the bottom of the pit. That plus the flexibility
and ease of setting the level that switches the pump on make the switch very useful to those who have a high water table or have a sump pump that operates frequently. I give a lot of credit to Ace Hardware and to Pumpbiz for offering this great product.

Rancher · Jan 20, 2007

jackofalltradesman said:
That is not how the switch works so i wonder where you got that quote. The wire has nothing to do with turning the pump off. You set a timer ( 0 - 60 seconds) for the "off" on this switch.

I got that quote from the link you provided...
http://www.pumpbiz.com/products/index.cfm?fuseaction=pump_model_detail&product_id=7686

Yes you set a timer, however the timer doesn't come on until the water drops below the probe, so if you've set the timer to match the conditions when you've had a continous flow of water into your sump, then you run the risk of running the pump dry when the flow of water into your sump is less than that. A timer is a bad way of setting how long a sump pump should run, a "good" liquid level control should have both a high probe and a low probe. I don't know of one that is neatly boxed up like flood free device, however if you want to build yourself a good liquid level control that has lasted 10's of years at my place, go to:

http://www.ssac.com/catalog/LLC51A01.pdf

Rancher

Sponsor · 2022-01-29T12:20:58-0800

jackofalltradesman · Jan 20, 2007

Lastly, on the Wayne AU5ES/PumpBiz switch (because I think this was beaten down by a few who have done everything but try one) I have to respond to the timer for "off" on the pump.

First, the timer means you do not need a sensor that remains submerged in water. Second, unless the drain tile is gushing water into the pit sometimes but completely dry at others you won't need to make any further adjustments once you set the time.
The timer is very easy to adjust to drain the water down to the bottom or near the bottom of the sump pit. My current pump takes about 25 seconds to empty the sump from a relatively high level.
As someone who actually has the switch, I highly recommend it. If you are considering one, look for others who actually have one for recommendations and testimonials about their own experiences. I mention that because some of what has been said here is entirely contradicted by my own experience with the product.

Sumpthing · Jan 27, 2007

They probebly use a fluid sensor IC (Integrated Circuit) chip like a LM1830N that is built specificly to sense water. These IC chips are also designed to prevent scaling/build up on the probes by running an AC signal(oscillator) through the probe which prevents the probes from retaining any scale. I havnt taken one of these apart.... yet, so this is only a guess. I had used something similar from Simmer a few years ago and did have problems with that duel probe system.

Bubb1957 · Jan 31, 2007

Jackof...how many cycles is the wayne switch rated for? I could not find that in the specs..any idea?

disregard..i did find it on pumpbiz that its rated for 100,000 cycles. My pump going off around every 4 minutes now, 15 times per hour, 360 times a day ,= 277 days, or about 9 months. Sometimes I will pump more, sometimes in a dry summer, a little less.

waterman · Oct 26, 2007

reliable dual level controller

Rancher said:
I got that quote from the link you provided...
http://www.pumpbiz.com/products/index.cfm?fuseaction=pump_model_detail&product_id=7686

Yes you set a timer, however the timer doesn't come on until the water drops below the probe, so if you've set the timer to match the conditions when you've had a continous flow of water into your sump, then you run the risk of running the pump dry when the flow of water into your sump is less than that. A timer is a bad way of setting how long a sump pump should run, a "good" liquid level control should have both a high probe and a low probe. I don't know of one that is neatly boxed up like flood free device, however if you want to build yourself a good liquid level control that has lasted 10's of years at my place, go to:

http://www.ssac.com/catalog/LLC51A01.pdf

Rancher

Very nice reference - thanks. Do you use the ABB probes, which look really pricey, or do you just use the controller with wires dangling in the water? Any special wire material?

The LLC2 also looks interesting. Is there a reason you went with the LLC5 instead? Do you recall the approximate cost of the control unit?

I'm tired of checking my crawlspace and finding that it has flooded (pools on top of the plastic over the sand over the bedrock out of which the water flows during the wet season) in spite of the fact that the pump itself - and the float switch (once it gets exercised) - seem to be working fine. I need this thing to work 'first time, every time' even after it's been sitting for months over the local dry season and have been searching high and low for super-reliable solutions.

waterman

Speedbump · Oct 27, 2007

The whole thing sounds like an AD for Pumpbiz and Wayne, neither of which I have much use for.

I agree with Rancher, a timer is a poor excuse for an off switch. Running pumps most of which have plastic impellers and plastic housings in many cases is a real bad idea.

I don't believe the concept that this tinned wire senses water when it gets close. I think water has to touch the wire physically to actuate the switch.

I'm going to go make up an Advertisement for some of my products and post it on the Electrical Forum. I'm sure those guys would love to see a Water Pump Ad there.

bob...

Rancher · Oct 27, 2007

waterman said:
. Do you use the ABB probes, which look really pricey, or do you just use the controller with wires dangling in the water? Any special wire material?

I don't use the ABB probes, they must be gold plated. I screw a brass screw into a PVC cap, attach a wire under the nut on the inside of the cap, run it into a PVC tee (unless it's the bottom probe) and then on up in a ladder type arraingement. In other words the wire is inside of the pvc pipe, you can use bell wire or phone wire, or CAT 5.

waterman said:
. The LLC2 also looks interesting. Is there a reason you went with the LLC5 instead? Do you recall the approximate cost of the control unit?

The LLC5 plugs into an octal socket, makes it easy to change out, the LLC2 needs more space when mounted and is not as forgiving if it gets wet.

You can get one from any of the authorized SSAC distributors with just a phone call, I've never had one refuse my money. Or a little cheaper here:

http://cgi.****.com/Liquid-Level-Control-LLC5-Series-Dual-Probe-LLC56BF100_W0QQitemZ140158248712

Insert e b a y for the astricks.

Good Luck

Rancher

Raucina · Oct 28, 2007

If I lived in a house that cycled a pump 100,000 times in 9 months to keep the basement dry, I would fill the damn thing in and build a barn outside in order to save money and frustration

rwat54 · Dec 2, 2008

How is you switch working - after almost 2 years

Jackofalltrades - How is your switch working after almost 2 years? Any problems with the probe? I want to use the switch in a sewage ejector pit. The diaphram switches I have been using have not lasted. Last one less than 1 year. 2 pluses I see for this switch is 1) easy to install the wire probes, I don't have to drain the sump and pull the pump, 2) alarm if the pump or switch fails. I did not see any posts from anyone else who tried the switch. Hope this switch is working for you.

Bubb1957 · Dec 4, 2008

Pm

rw..I sent you a PM for this response.

csv001 · Mar 2, 2009

My Wayne Sensor (AU5ES) failed once

I have had my sensor installed for about 5 months in my ejector pit. It worked fine up until last night when neither the alarm or the relay went off. It happened while my wife was doing laundry. The good thing was that I was in the basement when the stand-alone, cheap water alarm I have on the floor next to the drain went off. I ran into the utility room and quickly plugged the pump directly into a wall socket minimizing the amount of water.

Anyway, has anyone else used this in an ejector pit (waste/water)? Has anyone else run into a failure this quickly after installation? The pump doesn't go off that often; maximum of 50 times a week and that is most likely stretching it.

Bubb1957 · Mar 2, 2009

sensor switch

I used mine in a regular sump crock, it worked great, never let me down. I have a spare on the shelf for back up.

Redwood · Mar 2, 2009

Somehow I think he may have moved on to selling something else...
Something easier to sell than a electronic switch for a submersible pump that is sold in big box stores...

Oceanfront property in Montana anyone?

Jtlbean · Jul 27, 2009

bubb1957 said:
I used mine in a regular sump crock, it worked great, never let me down. I have a spare on the shelf for back up.

So bubb, this switch has worked out for you? How often does your pump run? I have a VERY active pump and have the switch fail on ave once per year. I would love to have a float switch that I can count on.

Just installed a new Electronic Sump Switch

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