Best location for pressure switch?

Users who are viewing this thread

Randyj

Master Plumber
Messages
1,060
Reaction score
2
Points
36
Location
Alabama
Wow... sounds like one guy wants a lug wrench and a jack to swap out a spare for a flat tire and the other wants a lift and pneumtic torque wrench preset to exactly 120 ft.lbs. for the lug nuts...with a safety engineer, mechanical engineer, and civil engineer to be sure it's done right. Personally, I give a fat ******* less how it's done as long as it works, looks pretty, and everyone who pays the bills are happy.
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Bob NH

In the Trades
Messages
3,310
Reaction score
9
Points
0
Location
New Hampshire
If the pipe is close to the ground, then it is probably possible to insulate the pipe on top and leave it exposed to the ground. In San Jose there is enough heat in the ground to keep the pipe from freezing.

A pile of straw or fiberglass insulation with some plastic or a tarp over it, with no insulation between pipe and ground, would probably do it.
 

Sammyhydro11

In the Trades
Messages
708
Reaction score
1
Points
16
Location
Massachusetts
Randy,
i would suspect that from someone that doesn't give a ******** about his quality of work. And thats a classic example why plumbers need to stay out of the well business and let professional well contrators do there work.

SAM
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Randyj

Master Plumber
Messages
1,060
Reaction score
2
Points
36
Location
Alabama
Hmmm.... I don't recall anyone saying they didn't care about their quality of work... only that it works and that it is done in a cost effective and efficient manner. One of these days I will be put on a pedistal so I can be glorified as being the only one with the true and godly answers. Woe is me who is not perfect.
 

Sammyhydro11

In the Trades
Messages
708
Reaction score
1
Points
16
Location
Massachusetts
Randy,
i uinderstand. I just stick to my code of quailty and craftsmanship. Its not aimed at putting me in the spotlight its more aimed at what kind of quality i give to my customer. But if someone wants something done a certain way i guess they will chose that person that will offer it. But i stick with what i do because i know what has worked.

SAM
 

Randyj

Master Plumber
Messages
1,060
Reaction score
2
Points
36
Location
Alabama
Great Sam... and you have read and know how much everyone here appreciates the very excellent and valuable advice given from the professionals as well as the guys/gals who simply "do it".

p.s. ... and I think every one would do it just a fuzz differently than the other one.
 
V

vaplumber

Guest
sammyhydro11 said:
Randy,
i would suspect that from someone that doesn't give a ******** about his quality of work. And thats a classic example why plumbers need to stay out of the well business and let professional well contrators do there work.

SAM
In some small areas of the country, the plumbers are also the heating and cooling contractors, the electricians, and the well pump men. My sign and my ads in the yellow pages advertise me as "Plumbing, heating/air, electrical, and water supply system design and installation. Locally owned with over 50 years owner experience. Licensed, bonded and insured, with all work satisfation guaranteed!!",... and yes, Ive spent many sleepless night almost in tears because some one wasnt satisfied, and I had to refund some very substantial pay checks!! I also spent the latter part of the 50's and up until the mid 80's as a "honey dipper", and if you are too young to know what that term means, I designed, installed, cleaned, serviced and repaired septic systems, so even with my best customers, all family and most friends included, I some times left there homes and businesses only after taking "A huge load of crap" off of the people I care about the most!! I have went to school, trained and got degrees in every thing that I could educate in, and many times my common knowledge and life learning experiences could not be taught or licensed. I have had cases where the so called book was right on, and cases where Ive thrown the book away, but the years and the problems Ive solved have taught me more than any damned book or degree could ever teach. Many of the things Ive learned have worked well for me, yet wouldnt work for you for nothing, and many of the things you know work for you, but wouldnt meant shit to me(sorry for the language Terry). Forget that book for once, and become experienced!! Thats my opinion of "Why plumbers should leave wells to the well contractors, and any future thought of why the well men should leave plumbing to the plumbers!";! I know nothing about drilling wells...wouldnt try it for any amount of money, yet many of the drillers around here make the hole, develop it, case it, grout it, provide me with specs and drive away leaving the rest to me. I agree that a pitless would solve the problem for good, but this forum is for people who are trying to do the work themselves and save time and money, and if this guy called and asked for a pitless with in the climate zone where he lives, he'd be laughed out of town. To the original poster;...I would use a foam type insulation, with a plastic or foil backing, and I would wrap that in water proof tape. For the pressure switch being on an exposed tank, if it's worked fine for 15 years leave it be, but come time to replace, I would either find a weather proof switch housing, or I would protect that switch in some way. If you want to keep some child from opening the switch and geting electrocuted, open it your self and put a drop of loctite on the screw threads, and re assemble. Let me see a child (or any one else) open that!
 
Last edited by a moderator:
V

vaplumber

Guest
Another thought. Why not put an outlet at the pressure switch, go to Wal Mart and buy one 100 foot and one 50 foot outdoor heavy orange extension cord, (or a single longer cord if you dont mind a coil of extra length) and go ahead and put heat tape and insulation on that pipe. Come spring, show the owner how to unhook it all, and come winter, show her how to roll it back out, and what to plug in for the winter. Dont worry about over loading an extension cord. From what you describe, the most heavy heat cable you could by that would help wouldnt draw no more than a couple hundred watts! From your post, it seems this has worked in the past, and the only change is that the outlet will no longer be at the well head. Might not look pro, but total cost should be less that $30, and you know it will work. As for quality of work, remember the home owners want some thing safe that will work for them, not some thing they can sell to their next high bidder for a contracted job. Thats why I like this board!! Sammy, we want you here and we need you here. Just take it all with a grain of salt. I insulted some one here before by becoming very defensive...Rugged, hope your reading...and after a few short posts I learned. Question any thing you dont understand, challenge it even, but dont make it personal. You might teach us some thing, or you might learn some thing your self!
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Sammyhydro11

In the Trades
Messages
708
Reaction score
1
Points
16
Location
Massachusetts
vaplumber,
hey man i respect what you have to say and maybe that comment about plumbers was uncalled for and i apologize.But when someone(RANCHER) flat out comments about something he knows nothing about i have no choice but to back myself up.That rancher does this alot and it throws people off.He knows bits an pieces of what we do.It seems like he nibbles around the edges. I know my trade and know how things are put together right and it sounds the same for you.This guy asked about a pipe freezing issue at an elderly ladies home.You know as well as i do that apressure switch 120' away from the tank is bad news. So i pretty came up with a zero maintanance solution that doesn't require extention cords, heat tape ,and foam. I'm not saying that those things wouldn't work but what i am saying is the pitless solution is something that is in the best interest for an old lady that cant do much work on her own.I try to take all things into consideration when coming up w/a solution and her being an elderly women living alone was one of them. But hey man,i do respect you for what you do and it sounds to me like i could learn alot from a person like yourself.

HAPPY NEW YEAR

SAM
 
V

vaplumber

Guest
sammyhydro11 said:
. But hey man,i do respect you for what you do and it sounds to me like i could learn alot from a person like yourself.

HAPPY NEW YEAR

SAM

Sammy, I know that we could all learn a lot from you too, and Happy new years to every one here! I do apologize for my heated come back.

As for the pressure switch 120 feet from the tank, WOW!!!! I am suprised that this really worked. Sammy is right on there. That switch should be no more than about a foot and a half from the tank tee, and on the well side of the line, and closer would be even better. I think that you will find if you ever have to replace that switch, the new ones are made so cheap and with lighter springs and rubber in stead of metal diaghrams, and a new one would never work where the old one is. Ive replaced old ones that were as many as 6 foot from the tank and worked for 30 years, but when I put the new one on, I would get swicth chatter and water pulsations.
 

Raucina

New Member
Messages
515
Reaction score
1
Points
0
You guys must be bored. As I [with some sarcasm] and Bobnh has said, throw some straw or paper or foam or dirt over the pipe. Build a nice little box to contain it all if need be. Hope for gophers and rats to tunnel in and add BTU's.

Thats absolutely all grandma needs or might afford. Thats exactly all that the neighbors did also. Pitless adapters are a unneeded complication in this climate.

Granma coud actually take this solution in her own hands if she read this forum, would not even need the friend.
 

jgbfl

New Member
Messages
29
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
Florida
That switch should be no more than about a foot and a half from the tank tee, and on the well side of the line, and closer would be even better.

VAL,
Can the switch be plumbed directly to the water pipe?
Meaning, insert a tee in the line in front of the tee to the bladder tank and use a reducing bushing to accept the threaded connection on the bottom of the switch?

Or would a better location be on the line to the bladder tank?

TYIA
Jeff
 
V

vaplumber

Guest
Plumb the switch into the line between the pump and tank as close to the tank as possible. A tee and bushing will work fine. If you put the switch after the tank, you may get chatter.
 
Top
Hey, wait a minute.

This is awkward, but...

It looks like you're using an ad blocker. We get it, but (1) terrylove.com can't live without ads, and (2) ad blockers can cause issues with videos and comments. If you'd like to support the site, please allow ads.

If any particular ad is your REASON for blocking ads, please let us know. We might be able to do something about it. Thanks.
I've Disabled AdBlock    No Thanks