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Thread: Need the experts to verify this plan

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  1. #1
    DIY Junior Member jgbfl's Avatar
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    Default Need the experts to verify this plan

    Hello from the noob,

    I am finishing up the construction of my new home here on the west coast of Florida.
    I would lke opinions from you regarding my plans for my on site domestic well water supply.

    * 120' 4'' well w/1hp submersible pump set at 95'
    * 8' static head level
    * Well produces +/- 25gpm
    * Water quality is good, no iron but typ florida sulfer content
    * Well drawn water will pass thorugh a large DE filter to a 250gal aeretor storage tank
    * 2nd submersible pump hanging within storage tank/to 60gal pre-charged bladder tank/Kentico water softener/1 1/4'' cycle stop valve/back check valve
    * I plan on installing a high & low water level float switch in the storage tank

    My questions would be, do they make a bracket that supports the submersible pump located in the storage tank? I guess that if the pump in the well hangs on the drop pipe, I can be assured that the hanging the 2nd pump in the tank would be trouble free?

    What would you recommend for a chloinator? I'm thinking about chlorinating the water in/at the storage tank. Drinking/cooking water will be passing through a RO unit & carbon filter. Chlorination would at a very minimum, just to help keep bacteria count down.

    Thanks for any support.

  2. #2
    Rancher
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    Quote Originally Posted by jgbfl
    My questions would be, do they make a bracket that supports the submersible pump located in the storage tank? I guess that if the pump in the well hangs on the drop pipe, I can be assured that the hanging the 2nd pump in the tank would be trouble free?
    I've done both a hanging pump and a horizontal pump laying on the bottom. Some people use a sleeve to get the water to flow past the pump to cool it, I've had no problems without a sleeve.

    Rancher

    What does the DE filter do for you?

  3. #3
    DIY Junior Member jgbfl's Avatar
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    "What does the DE filter do for you?"

    The DE filter is mainly for any sediment that may enter the system. In my area, we have type C soils which are mostly sand.

    The filter came off a very large commercial pool, it was free and I can backwash in lieu of changing cartrige filters.

    Another point, after reading several threads regarding the CSV, I'm thinking I wait till later to consider this valve. Seem like my water usage may not dictate one. Maybe after I install irrigation should I look into it.

    Any thoughts?

  4. #4
    That's all folks! Gary Slusser's Avatar
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    I wouldn't do it that way. And I certainly wouldn't use a DE filter (ever for potable water treatment). And if I did, it wouldn't be between a submersible pump and its pressure switch; thats a real bad idea and can cause loss of the pump down the well. I also wouldn't use the aeration/storage tank. Or an alternating twin tank softener unless I needed softened water on a 24 hour basis (like shift workers do) but, if I did, it certainly would not be the ery proprietary water powered unGodly high priced one you mentioned! I also wouldnt use a RO unless I had a proven need for one like arsenic, lead, nitrates etc..

    So... without knowing your water analysis data... I would suggest a smaller hp pump (a 1/2 hp 13 gpm is more than enough for most homes) in the well unless you are running irrigation. Then a CSV, a small captive air precharged pressure tank, my inline erosion pellet chlorinator and its special mixing/retention tank (eqivalent to a regular 120 retention tank), a correctly sized for the peak demand water use Centaur carbon filter and a correctly sized metered/demand initiated/regenerated regular softener with the Clack WS-1 control valve.

    The chlorine takes care of the iron, manganese, H2S (sulfur) and all types of bacteria. The Centaur removes any dirt the chlorine causes and the chlorine (smell and taste) and then you have no need for a separate drinking water filter. Then, the softener only has to deal with the hardness so no fouled resin problems.

    You don't need filtration before a pressure tank, or aeration AND chlorine and the aeration can't kill bacteria or algea etc. but can cause it and you are in FL and this stuff is probably going to be installed outside... So you then wouldn't need the second pump and the means of controling it. If you needed a twin tank softener, it would be a correctly sized (each tank) for your peak demand gpm Fleck 9100.

    You'll spend a lot less money, have a much simpler system with constant pressure and treatment equipment that really works and with next to no maintenance other than adding salt and pellets periodically.

    Questions?
    Gary Slusser Retired (= out of business)
    Click Here to learn how to correctly size or program a water softener.
    CAUTION, as of Nov 12 2013 all YouTube videos showing how to rebuild a Clack valve have an error in them that can cause damage.

  5. #5
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    I agree with Gary on the smaller pump, the CSV, the smaller bladder tank and no aerator. Gary can also save you a fortune on Water Filtration.

    The only thing I would do different is instead of chlorine, I have an air pump system that takes out the sulphur under pressure simply by adding air to a galvanized tank. We have hundreds of them around here and several that were sold over the internet. We are also located on the West coast of Florida. That's how I know they work so good. We have more than our fair share of sulphur odor.

    Your aerator, and 1 horse pump are both over kill. Unless you already have the pump installed or you have a sprinkler system in place that depends on that pump, drop down to a 1/2hp 10 gpm. For some reason around here when a well is drilled, the mentality is to install a 1 hp pump no matter what the usage. We are one of a very few who even sell 1/2hp subs. They last longer because of less cycling cost less to operate.

    bob...

  6. #6
    DIY Junior Member jgbfl's Avatar
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    The plan is to have irrigation at a later date, hence the 1hp pump.
    My intent was to serve the irrigation system directly from the well pump.

    The storage tank is aerator type so it is not under pressure. Tank fills up on demand only via a float switch. I'm not sure why I wouldn't want to filter the water with the DE filter I already have?
    I have already bought the pumps so I'm kinda stuck with hp. They are multi stage pumps, which I think they will ramp up in volocity according to usage, correct me if I am wrong.

    With a lot of research, I was convinced that a larger bladder tank was better then one under sized. The water softener was purchased a long time ago and I am bringing it from the rental house I currently live in. Softening is a must as the water is very hard and it only softens water as needed.

    Discuss.....

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    Doesn't sound like you need us. You've already made up your mind.

    bob...

  8. #8
    DIY Junior Member jgbfl's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by speedbump
    Doesn't sound like you need us. You've already made up your mind.

    bob...
    Bob, I guess I have for the most part. Plumbing/wells systems is not a field I am well versed in. I guess I am asking these questions of you all to reinforce what my plans are. I am looking to try to construct a system that will be as trouble free as possible. It looks like from all of you that there is nothing terribly wrong with my layout. It is unfortinate that I only discovered this site 2 days ago. I do thank you all for taking the time to reply to my posts. I do appreciate it.

    Gary, you said you would never use a DE filter for poptable water, could you elaborate? Thank you again.
    Jeff

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