Mortar under tub question

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Randyj

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As I stated in other posts... I've installed ALOT of tubs and have never put mortar under the tubs and have never seen mortar put under tubs. I have another tub/shower swap out to do next week. The customer weighs 345# and I want to make sure he has plenty of support. BennyBaby is suggesting structo-lite or some similar item. Just wondering what you guys suggest. Will just regular old cement mortar work or is there a specific type of mortar I need to consider? I assume that I can just cover the area with plastic and dump about a 1-2" layer of mortar down and plop the tub right there then hook it all up as usual...and add on $200 for my grief.
 

Terry

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I use regular motor, but just put in few piles.
That way when the tub is dropped over the piles, there is a place for the excess mortar to go.
You don't need to cover the whole bottom side, when I've tried, I either wind up with too much or too little.
Drop a few piles in, and the tub will just push them down where they are needed.
 

Geniescience

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Terry's method is best since it leaves room to squash each pile (or pillar) of cement. You can only push down once; you can't pull it back up.

Randy, in case you want to know more and need the right terms to get to the right information, here is what i know. Look for this "pillar" method, used by professionals, for any large heavy flat thing. Some tile-layers use it instead of trowelling thinset, in some applications. People who lay large stone slabs or tiles call it "five-spot", or nine-spot, or pillars under tiles. It's the same (similar) technique as solidifying under a tub. Five little spots under a square tile means one in the middle and one in each corner, nine spot means a three-by-three grid. If you only put two spots under a tub or even just a strip in the middle of the long axis, you will have done the same thing, achieved the same result.

david
 

Randyj

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Thanks guys... of course I'll take Terry's word as gospel. I got this job by word of mouth and will be driving 3 hours both ways for it.... he's willing to pay very well, cover my expenses and I don't want to go back for repairs.... will be taking my camera phone... might just send you guys some pictures to show off my fancy work and how it's done. I need some good pics of my work anyway to post on my Smith Lake advertisement. Starting up my business around here has been slow but it is growing. When I get close to finishing my house I'm thinking about looking into Toto toilets ... just wondering what all the hoopla is about them.
 

SRdenny

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Randy
I use a product called Stuctolite which is a Gypsum Perlite Plaster. More building material suppliers would stock it. It has all the advantages of mortar, but without sand, it doesn't scratch surfaces and is easy to clean off of places it was not intended to be gotten.
 

Randyj

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Thanks srdenny... I'll look for it when I go to the big city...and I'll be sure to read the label (and price tag)...
 

DIY

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Mortar or no Mortar

I have been on several jobs where they installed not fiberglass,but maybe it's a mixture of fiberglass and this material called Vikrell. It has a nice clean look to it textured or the smooth finish. In any event mortar beds were not used in these tub installations either Randy. What kind of tub are you putting in cast iron,thin gauge metal,fiberglass etc.?
 

Norcal1

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I like to use fix-it-all...great product, easy to use and clean up...also pretty cheap. I set down several piles as well. :)
 

Randyj

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Replacing a fiberglass tub that has a busted bottom with a Sterling Performa for a customer who is a 350# man.
 
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