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Thread: No water, well pump won't turn on, electrical question:

  1. #1

    Default No water, well pump won't turn on, electrical question:

    Well the water stopped running in the house today, the pump will not turn on. The pressure switch is fine, it is engaged to on. The wires have power. However in the box that contains the relay, the starting capacitor, and the running capacitor, I think there is a problem. The relay that turns on the pump is not clicking. If power is turned on at the fuse box, the room lights dim just a bit (like there is a load) but the relay doesn't throw. Then the overload button on the relay box pops out. I'm hoping I don't need a new pump. Do these symptoms ring a bell for anyone? Maybe a bad cap or relay? Not sure how to test what may be bad. Thanks for any advice.

    -Dan

  2. #2
    DIY scratch-pad engineer leejosepho's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ddanrr
    If power is turned on at the fuse box, the room lights dim just a bit (like there is a load) but the relay doesn't throw ... Do these symptoms ring a bell for anyone?
    In my own case a few weeks ago, the dimmed-lights symptom indicated my need for a new pump. While spending a few days looking for a new pump, I could flip the circuit breaker off and on a few times to "jog" the pump motor and get it going again, but I do not know whether that might work for you. Also, my submersible is a two-wire and does not have a relay box.

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    It could be the start cap, run cap, relay or motor. It could be the wires leading out to the motor. These things can be checked with an ohm meter and amp meter. Do you have either?

    bob...

  4. #4

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    Well, I did go ahead and buy a new control box, because I needed to get the water going again. And it did work, the water worked all day today, but now its stopped again, I think I burned out the new box. The pump is old and was getting quite noisy. I think maybe its drawing too many amps (because its worn and struggling) and these 1/2 HP boxes can't handle the load. If I got a 1 1/2 HP control box it may handle more amps and run a little longer, who knows. But I am probably putting off the problem that the pump needs to be replaced. Really bad time for this to happen though.

    What do you guys think it will cost to get a 1/2 hp submersible replaced by the pros?
    Theres no way I'm going to be able to get that out of the ground myself. (To answer your question, I do have an ohm meter, but not an amp meter.)

  5. #5
    vaplumber
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ddanrr
    Well, I did go ahead and buy a new control box, because I needed to get the water going again. And it did work, the water worked all day today, but now its stopped again, I think I burned out the new box. The pump is old and was getting quite noisy. I think maybe its drawing too many amps (because its worn and struggling) and these 1/2 HP boxes can't handle the load. If I got a 1 1/2 HP control box it may handle more amps and run a little longer, who knows. But I am probably putting off the problem that the pump needs to be replaced. Really bad time for this to happen though.

    What do you guys think it will cost to get a 1/2 hp submersible replaced by the pros?
    Theres no way I'm going to be able to get that out of the ground myself. (To answer your question, I do have an ohm meter, but not an amp meter.)
    Keep the box matched to the pump. Same brand, same hp rating. Cost wise, thats a hard guess. Depends on depth of pump, brand of pump, and even distance from shop. Bad wiring or a faulty drop cable can also burn out the box. If you have to replace the pump, go with a 2 wire and a decent brand.

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    DIY scratch-pad engineer leejosepho's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ddanrr
    What do you guys think it will cost to get a 1/2 hp submersible replaced by the pros?
    First, take va's advice and go with a two-wire and eliminate the control box. The man (company) who put in my well over 12 years ago just recently sold me a Myers Rustler submersible for a little under $400.00 to install myself, and he/they would have installed it for a little under $200.00 more.

  7. #7
    Rancher
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ddanrr
    these 1/2 HP boxes can't handle the load. If I got a 1 1/2 HP control box it may handle more amps and run a little longer, who knows.
    If it's a 1/2 HP pump it needs a 1/2 HP controler, a bigger one won't help and it will hurt, it's sized to make the motor of the pump start, nothing else.

    Rancher
    Last edited by Rancher; 12-18-2006 at 07:00 AM.

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    I think it's time to call the Pro.

    bob...

  9. #9

    Smile densa44

    Thanks Terry!!

    Great site.
    My pump was popping the circuit breaker and I couldn't figure out why. The well is 180' so I didn't want to pull a pump in the winter or any other time for that matter. You said it could be a short!

    I took the cap off the well, and the plastic was gone at the murrettes. I cut off the damaged ends and repaired the conections. Went in the house and cycled the breaker. A huge flash came out of the well. There was no plastic covering on more wire a little farther down the well.

    Cut the wire again, replaced the murrettes and she is working perfectly.

    Thank you very much

    Bob Cameron Calgary

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