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You strike my curiosity - why not Apollo? My supplier used to stock Cash-Acme, but has switched to Apollo - so I have been using these for about a year now.

In Ontario, can we use ABS underground ? for example, building drain (horizontal sections underground) can be ABS or have to be PVC (white or green in color) ?[/QUOTE]

my original post said for...

1 - you are correct in taht you cannot use a TY on its back, that has to be a wye and 45

2 - if the 1-1/4" vent isnt serving any fixture it is ok to connect it there......

3 - there is a...

the only way you will lessen wait time for hot water at distant fixtures is to install a recirculating sytem. insulating all hot water lines is never a bad idea either - not for wait time, just...

nope...it will always run vertical.....think of your connection to flange = vertical. that is where you can go up to 1m....you can only go from that vertical to horizontal once...it cannot offset...

Just to add to this:

The distance between the toilet connection (flange) and vent pipe can also be 1m vertical and 3m horizontal. meaning you can drop 1m on the vertical plane from toilet flange...

if i read this correctly you want to run the separate 2" vent for sewage tank, through the wall and extend above roof line?
if so it still need to increase in size to min. 3" pipe through the wall...

it can be 1-1/4" drain and can be stack vented if there is no discharge upstream of where it connects to the 3" main. If there is discharge from above that connection then it does require tis own...

my thoughts as well....

as long as the tub is connected as a vertical continuos waste

a 1-1/2" back vent on downstream toilet is all that you need..and yes connect to the 3 " above FLR of lav

it depends if it was piped properly below the concrete...without knowing it would be safest to back vent the tub if you can

with this lay-out you are wet venting one toilet with the other, which isnt to code, so you would need to have a separate ventfro teh second (downstream) toilet to meet code...or have both toilets...

this is a standard set up....the toilet and the shower are wet vented via lav drain.

there may be charts showing equivalent lengths for fittings out there... but when we're talking venting to code you refer to developed length of the piping.
your link is for new york city...
all...

so yoru total fixture unit load after installing new fixtures would be 18FU...your 1-1/2" vent can handle that for a length of 20 meters....so you can use your 1-1/2" vent

how many, and which fixtures are already on the 1-1/2" vent line from the basment? what is approx length of this existing basement vent?

two note on you plan for venting..

1 - you can't wet vent your washing machine as it is downstream of the toilet (you mention the pipe is for your washroom)

2 - your wash machine needs to drain...

i'll second HJ...first thing that came to mind before reading anything was Pfister...does not look like a Moen...Moen would would be labelled withthe Moen logo at the front bottom of the valve body

shark bite or equivalent removal tool

here's how i handle this...if a customer opts to buy any fixture or equipment through me, faucet, sink, toilet, water heater, etc., then I will handle any warranty issues and no charge for service if...

we generally use ABS for anythign above ground in a residential building

going back to your first post....go ahead and call in that plumber...

Terry has hit it bang on....wet vent the toilet via a 2" lav drain and connect the vent for lav/toilet to the existing vent above flood level rim. peace of cake for any plumber

my quetion would be what is the connectin to the dishwasher with pex that uses a ferrul? im assuming a compession joint, which would fail (leak) under any amount of pressure without the ferrule.