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I know it's 1 1/4" because I bought a 1" coupler and a 1 1/4" coupler thinking I might use them to fix the thing. There's no way the 1" coupler would go onto this line.

I also know because about...

It's definitely a 1 1/4" line and it definitely is a single family residence. No idea why this line is so big. I ended up putting one of those screw clamp things on it with the rubber clamped tight...

It's definitely a supply line. It's copper. I suppose one could use copper for a drain. Regardless, it comes out of the slab and immediately goes into a few tees that supply the lav, the toilet...

Been browsing around a bit. What do you guys think of these things: http://www.uspvh.com/Downloads/Section5.1.pdf Seems like it should work until the rubber wears out.

Thanks Chef Wong. I've attached a picture that might help (?) 14564 You can see the gouge the right above the slab. (I already removed the really thin sliver of sole plate so I could better see...

So, I've got a bit of a problem. While putting up some tile backer I accidentally drilled through a sole plate and hit a 1 1/4" copper pipe with a screw. As soon as I hit it I knew what happened...

Alright, now I've got a bit of a rant. I read up on the difference between the atmospheric anti-siphon valve and the PVB so I now understand why you can only put a valve before the atmospheric...

As always hj, thanks.

My water heater is actually in the interior of the house in a closet. Odd that they would put it there. I found out the hard way when it started leaking why people like to...

Is it a huge no-no to soften the water going to an irrigation system? I've got a small garden in the backyard on a drip system and the hardness just kills the drip emitters. Also, that drip tubing...

So I live in Tucson. We've got some crazy hard water down here. I had a rep from the water company over to my house the other day and she told me that the hardness is actually slated to --DOUBLE--...

Thanks hj. Yeah, I certainly see that a better solution would have been to use a PVC tee and then a shielded transition coupling like Terry mentioned. However, aren't all the transition couplings...

Thanks everyone. I'll keep an access panel from the room next door.

I am curious here about what the "right" way to do this would have been. hj, you mentioned that rubber rots, but I don't know...

Thanks Terry. I couldn't find a Tee version of the "shielded" coupler, only the non-shielded version. I cut out the old PVC fitting and put the new rubber T thingie in there. Seems I'm leak free...

I used Kohler K-7272 overflow drain which is the only drain that will work with this tub. It's all PVC. The overflow housing is PVC and is welded to the overflow downtube. The drain ell is PVC...

You mean something like THIS?
http://www.terrylove.com/images/fernco_rubber.jpg


Will there be enough "meat" on the PVC pipes and the ABS pipe to make it into the coupling after I cut it out?
...

So I just installed a bathtub and I've got a leak! The floor is slab on grade. I used some of that green PVC-ABS transition cement. Obviously I couldn't do the normal 1/4 turn when I dropped in...

So, I'm wondering if I can undermount a drop in bathtub that has not been specifically stated as "undermount" capable? It would seem that for cast iron tubs, the sidewalls would be more than strong...