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I've recently purchased a new old house (1924). In one upstairs bathroom, the toilet was perched upon some 3/4" thick wood shims. I figured I had better figure out why, so I pulled it and...

The powder room is an old addition. The house is brick. I suppose it was not feasible to run the drain inside the brick wall. Also, due to the way the addition is supported, it doesn't appear it...

I am currently renovating a first floor powder room. The room was an addition built in the 50's onto my 1920's house.

I plan on replacing the lead drains with pvc (highlighted in green below),...

The sink shouldn't need to be level front to back. You can probably install it flush to the wall, shim the base to support it properly, and then grout or caulk around the base to hide the gap and...

Actually, I'm in Jacksonville.

I am hesitant to piss off the insurance company. My house has the original asbestos-cement roof, and out of about 40 insurance companies, mine was the only one that...

I've noticed some recent settling on one side of my 1929 home. There are a couple of new cracks in the concrete block foundation, and some cracks in the brick mortar on both the front and back of...

I'm replacing some galvanized pipes in my house. I'll have to verify, but I believe my meter size is 5/8.

I have 3/4" PVC supply running the 30 or so feet from meter to house. Inside the house I...

If I use a 3" 1/4 bend, I will have no height problems. I can use the correct length 3" pipe from the top of the 1/4 bend to the flange.

I do have a problem if I use 4" the entire way, as the...

Below is my revised plan. I will start at 3" at the flange, and then increase to 4" after the first 90* bend.

http://0x7a69.org/temp/drain2.jpg

I'm assuming it's fine to use 3" for a closet...

What if instead of a 3" to 4" closet bend, I used a 3" 1/4 bend? Then I would have 3" pipe from the flange all the way to the flush fit bushing.

The flush fit bushing does bother me a bit, the...

You will have to remove all of the lead from the brass ferrule. At it's thickest point, there was probably 1/2" of lead all around the ferrule. I melted off at least a couple pounds from my closet...

Okay, this is what I'm going to do to make this work.. Someone jump in and steer me straight if there is a problem with this setup:

http://0x7a69.org/temp/drain.jpg

What I don't like is that it...

I'm repiping a lead drain with PVC. I have a 4" CI wye, with a brass ferrule extending from the hub. From there, I have a 4" mission coupling, a short piece of 4" PVC, a street 1/16 bend and a...

Great! Thanks, Terry!

-Zach

I am repiping the drain for my lav, back to the stack. The stack is CI, with a 2" san tee. From the bell of the san tee, is a brass ferrule (I melted the lead off of it.) I'll be using a no-hub...

Next, I prepped the area. It was pretty close quarters, so I used a fireproof blanket to protect the wall behind the pipe. Next, I laid a couple of towels under the ferrule. I spritzed everything...

I wanted to extend a thanks to everyone on the forum for providing me with some valuable advice.

Last year, I purchased a 1928 house with all original plumbing. Without getting into too much...

Actually, it's a 2nd floor half bath, but I have the floor completely opened up. I have access all the way back to just behind the hub on the cast iron wye.

(but, I'm also going to be doing the...

If I attach to the brass ferrule, would I use a standard 3" Fernco coupling? (I'm just assuming it's a 3" ferrule... ?? )

I've been told by several people to get rid of the lead drains while I have access to them, and that they'll eventually crack and leak... so I would prefer to do that.

I guess my question is,...

I have a broken cast iron flange attached to a lead drain, which then attaches to cast iron.

I had a plumber come out to give me an estimate on knocking off the flange and leading a new one. He...

I will be running Type L soft copper for both hot and cold supply to a half bath on my second floor. I'm replacing the existing 3/4" galvanized.

The total distance of the run will be less than...

Sounds good to me. I'll let a pro take care of it.

Thanks for the replies!

Well, I guess soft copper is code for in-wall use. I'll look into either pex or soft copper for the vertical run, and transition into rigid copper for the rest of the runs.

I have no pex tools...

The top of the flange is broken. It appears the connection to the pipe is ok.

And I'm not talking about using one of those brackets to repair an ear on the flange, but a complete replacement...