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Exactly my point on my comment of a 1.5 HP pump at 120v, it would be a code violation anyways, since they are on for more than 3 hours. :)

1.5 hp motor at 120volts? highly doubt it.

The motor is probably shot. just a stupid guess though. :rolleyes:

Its not the GFCI's that have changed, but the appliances. :) GFCI's were never the problem, is was poorly designed appliances.

[/quotejar546]The new generation of GFCI receptacles are not prone to the same nuisance tripping as they once were.[/quote]


Its not the GFCI's that have changed, but the appliances. :) GFCI's...

Yep, every house I do has about 2 spares left, if i'm lucky, Of course I always try to sell a generator panel setup before hand. :)

Your basically old working the fan right? if so, then I have no problems burying a j-box behind the new fan, is it a real pain in the ass for the next guy, sure, but does it meet code, yes it does. :)

yes a ground rod is required. read article 250.32 :)

Your a goof ball. :D Who cares what the next idiot does?

I believe by building code you must split the insulation.

As already mentioned, if your going to use NM type cable, then it cannot be smaller than #6 AWG. Personally if I was doing the job thats exactly what you would get, 6-2 NM cable supplied from a 50...

Trace out everything before you just start cutting stuff.... I wasnt around in 1915, so not sure what common was.

The receptacle is in the DW space?

I dont know why your suggesting any of that...

If the AC cable does not contain a bonding strip then you cannot use the jacket as an equipment ground, nor extend those circuits with NM. Just start installing new circuits with NM back to the...

This thread should be a good one... :D

People make mistakes, nobody is perfect, but I do try to educate.... glad you learned something today. :)

The cord can be longer than 4', it can ONLY be 3' to 4' from the actual plug to the plane of the rear of the appliance, so in other words, since the dishwasher is 24" deep, I could install a 6' cord...

Code reference?



Code reference?

If you do choose low voltage, none of the wiring can be concealed in the walls. Makes for a tough clean looking install.

Last I knew EVERY job requires a permit.... :rolleyes:

I see a problem with the diagram because of how they got a grounded conductor to the fixture.

By code, you need to run a seperate 20 amp circuit just for the receptacle, or if you want to supply the bath as well you can, but that circuit cannot leave the bathroom.

Depends on the setup, sometimes you would not want the humidifier running without the fan on.

You can use a sail switch or a current sensing relay in series with your humidistat to turn on the humidifier.

http://www.ntsupply.com/images/products/50_relay_lg.300x184.gif
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