He needs to use #8AWG wire to have an acceptable voltage drop at 40A and 100'. Need to use #8AWG anyway for 40A. For 30A #10 is fine. Both calculate to about 2.5% voltage drop at full load.
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Type: Posts; User: Spaceman Spiff; Keyword(s):
He needs to use #8AWG wire to have an acceptable voltage drop at 40A and 100'. Need to use #8AWG anyway for 40A. For 30A #10 is fine. Both calculate to about 2.5% voltage drop at full load.
What about sliding 6' of 4" PVC or SDR over the connection?
I love my Turbotorch!
I had to use an extension on a tub overflow the other day. Luckily the drain linkage was adjustable enough to still work. I was replacing a drum trap that had Draino in it and it poured all over...
A good reminder to remove your hoses from the spigot in the fall, huh?
What about adding a pair of pedistals made out of wood on the left and right side that have a small chase for the wires? You could match the design of the shelves and paint it to match.
Wow... Makes me glad I live in Utah! MC cable and CI drains vs. romex and ABS/PVC.
I would prime with Kilz regular, not the water based stuff, then simply use an exterior latex enamel. There's several good paint companies out there but expect to pay $30 a gallon. Behr, Glidden,...
Yes, Commercial roofers do it all the time. I'd go with a TPO 60mil min. membrane over blue ISO board mechanically fastened to the deck, and the membrane adhered to the foam. They might have a...
I'd go with a continous membrane, adhered to at least 2" of foam insulation. That way if there is a cut in the membrane it still won't leak. Also, there are special pads for flat roofs so you can...
I'm going to go out on a limb and say it is a gas burner of some sort. Is there a smaller orifice inside the oblong opening inside the bell? The handles, tee in the middle and cap at the back end...
They are made of steel so I just put mine in my recycle bin. I make sure they're totally empty first.
My parents have had 3/4" solid oak in their bathroom and kitchen for over 20 years now and have had no problems. If properly finished water is not a concern.
Check with some of your local universities. Many of them have water labs and will anaylize your water for a nominal fee. My local one does it for $15 for a basic, and $40 for a complete anaylsis.
What about having it re-plated and getting new gaskets?
I agree with the use of a softener and RO filter for the fridge and drinking. I have that and love it. It has worked out great and everyone loves the water from the RO faucet; the kids drink more...
Sounds like everything is OK as long as you did everything really tight. I really prefer pipe dope, it's more forgiving in application than tape is. Just as long as you didn't use the pink or white...
I'd add a CAT 5 or two to your future office. Make all the data/tel dual runs so you can have one for data and the other for telephone. It's cheap wire to install.
Try putting one at a time in bypass mode and see if it stops. That will narrow it down to where the problem is coming from. It may take a day or two to see any difference since you'll need to flush...
As far as I know there's no restrictions in using treated lumber in your application.
The batting will help but you need to decouple the drywall from the floor joists. The best way to do that is to use resilient channel at 24" OC perpindicular to the joists. The resilient channel...
What's the code reference for this?
I think the P trap is missing because the sink is missing. I wouldn't bother with messing with it. Just put in 2 new tubing traps and go with it. If you put in a tubing tee with a baffle your sinks...
Are you cleaning the pipe and fittings with a wire brush and sandcloth before flux and soldering?
I'd hire someone with a sewer camera and then you'll know where the problems are. Then you could dig and repair if you were so inclined. Last time I had a sewer smaked it was $75 for about 45 min...