since he is not supposed to set the tanks air pressure above 80 PSI...I wonder what he did...he should have shown you the check valve if you had one because that would have been the only reason to...
|
|
|
Type: Posts; User: Cass; Keyword(s):
since he is not supposed to set the tanks air pressure above 80 PSI...I wonder what he did...he should have shown you the check valve if you had one because that would have been the only reason to...
If you did not have a PRV or check valve then the plumber did not know what he was doing...the expansion tank is useless under those conditions...
I asked and they didn't want to spring for a new valve....had they wanted a new valve I would have had the town find or install a new curb stop...
if you use them all the time that is what you want...I haven't found any I like as well as Ridgid brand...the ones from china are junk...
Maybe you installed a 10" rough in toilet on a 12" RI flange...check the box...
now you have a little taste of what we plumbers have to deal with
and while Sharkbites are OK for underground repairs per the Sharkbite info. I would never use one of them for an underground repair...even if approved localy...
Never needed a jet sweat for a drain...I would use a banded coupling.....a union leaves you in the same situation, unable to sweat a joint because of water, unless you are installing a valve...
A jet sweat will only work if your installing a valve...BTW sharkbites are brass not plastic...your thinking of Watts...
I will tell you...when you have to make a repair and the main shutoff won't close all the way and water is leaking by...you say turn the water off at the curb stop???...not if one can't be...
After looking at a job I charge a flat rate to do it...so all is well for me reguardless...they can take it or leave it but I get a minimum for coming out just to tell them and they won't know if I...
The washer requires a trap and vent as does the sink...the 3" copper line is not a vent it is a waste line....
if you remove the trap you may end up with a flood.....bail out the sinks first and use a bucket to catch the rest...
every trap needs its own vent
Helpful Plumbing Hints for Residential Construction by Bert Polk Plumbing Inspector Lincoln County
Sorry...I didn't see your mention of Epoxy....
The sink will have to be vented and connected to the sanatary system...the 3 compartment is seperated by way of an air gap as mentioned above...talk to the inspector....
You need professional help...running traps are not allowed and all the other reasons mentioned...it will never pass inspection...there are other things wrong...
It would be extremely odd to get 3 different faucets with the same problem...i am willing to bet you are doing something wrong...you need to be under the sink and watch and trace back to where the...
You realy need some one who works on trailers to look at it and see if all the vents are hooked up right and check the system over...have you changed the filter....
A better temporary solution would be to get some 65 grit sand paper and CAREFULLY sand the iron that on either side of the crack so the iron is bright...then apply some JB Weld and cover everything...
let us know if that works...The problem is if the PRV and /or check valve is on the building main every unit will require a tank or you can place 1 big one where the PRV is...
I am going to guess that the expansion tank is shot also....maybe not but the odds are it is...
many of the older designs can't be raised more...some of the pop ups are on the rod wrong by 180 degrees...
I can't beleive how hot it is getting...there is another snow storm coming....
be sure the rod is not electrically conductive...or the obvious could happen if you pierced an electric cable.......