Constant Pressure or Standard Submersible?
Hello all - this is my first post here, as I've never had a great deal of interest in wells, pumps, etc. But now I've got "well issues", so it's my new favorite topic!
Anyway, I live in Maryland and have a well that produces about 4.25 GPM. I've got an 8-year-old 1/2 HP Jacuzzi jet pump and a 20 Gallon pressure/holding tank. I've owned this house for about 10 months and the water has always been VERY clear, odorless and tastes fines. I've also always had at least decent water pressure as well. Recently, however, I've had issues with water pressure and sediment in the water (a LOT of sediment). I had the sensor switch replaced, but the jet pump is moving pressure up to about 45 psi once it switches on and runs and then immediately dropping to about 25 psi when it switches off (just a few psi above the "switch on" setting). The thing is also running much longer than normal, leading me to believe it's "overpumping" and stirring up the sediment.
Anyway, I've been told that there is a worn valve that's allowing pressure to escape, as it were, and that replacing the pump and plumbing is better than simply fixing the valve. I'm fine with that, because I've heard that submersible pumps are generally preferred and I'd like to upgrade from the 20 Gallon Amtrol tank (WX-202) to the 44 Gallon (WX-250).
Finally - my question...would it be recommended to simply go with a constant pressure submersible pump, or is the standard submersible/pressure tank suitable? If the constant pressure, what would the recommended HP be? I've seen 1 HP recommended, but might that be overkill for a 4.25 GPM well?
For more background - I live in a house with 3 bathrooms and also have a dishwasher. 2 people live in the house.
Any advice, answers, musings, etc. are quite welcome!
Thanks in advance,
Thanks all...follow up question too...
Unfortunately, there are some details of the well that I'm not familiar with - I don't know the well depth or whether it's drilled or dug. I do know that my jet pump is a deep well pump (2 wires) and that it's 1/2 HP. We are, for the sake of moving forward, going to dig it up and find out, but are working from the assumption that it's at least 100 feet and is drilled and, further, that it is 4" or more. We'll adjust as necessary after finding these things out.
The guys I'm getting to do this work (I'm not doing it myself) are going to install a 1/2 HP Goulds 5GS05 as Bob NH has suggested - they suggested this exact pump and also let me know that the WX-250 (44 gal. tank) would be good.
Other info - Initial GPM during the yield test was actually 6.6 GPM right away, then 5.45 after 15 minutes and fell to a fairly constant 4.28 shortly after that.
Anyway, I wasn't second guessing the guys who are doing the work...they seem quite knowledgeable. However, they did mention that a constant pressure pump was an option, albeit more expensive. I told them I'd think about it, but wanted other input besides theirs on this issue.
From what we know thus far, does the Goulds 1/2 HP 5GS05 and WX-250 seem like a good option? Though I'm sure it would work quite well, it doesn't seem to me that a booster pump/storage tank/pressure tank setup is necessary...keep in mind that I was entirely satisfied with water quality and pressure with the jet pump and 20 gallon tank setup (until recently when things broke down) and now I'm just replacing it with a presumably better pump and larger tank.
I guess I have another question or two on top of that - I currently have no filtration in place, other than on my refrigerator water/ice dispenser. Wondering if anyone recommends a spin-down filtration system to keep sediment out of the water?
Additionally, potability tests showed good water, and the only other issue I may have with the water is that it could be slightly acidic. So if the spin-down would be a good option, is there some addition/attachment to the spin-down that also takes care of pH levels?
Sediment, but not sand...
Thanks for your input speedbump...I'm getting "dirt" more than sand, i.e. - I can see sediment in a glass of water, the tanks in my toilet actually have a kind of muddy deposit on them that wipe away easily and my sink faucet screens are gunked up, but I wouldn't characterize the sediment as sand.
Interestingly, I think what you've suggested about the low pressure causing the sediment buildup to be "flushed" is probably correct. I think the pump was overpumping too, which I presume could have caused or exacerbated this problem.
On another note, my water seems now to be more clear, but the pressure is still lower than normal, so perhaps the sediment that was there has been totally flushed out.
That actually leads me to yet another question, for anyone who may know or have suggestions - I'd like some assurance that whatever sediment is coming through isn't going to get caught in faucet screens, the heating element of my hot water heater and dishwasher, the icemaker in my fridge, etc.
If the spin-down isn't a good option, is there some simple filtration system that is? Or, alternately, is the spin-down at least a good option in the event that some sand does end up getting through (to protect appliances and such)? Maryland has sandy soil in general, but where I am (further inland from the Chesapeake than I've previously lived), the soil is better.