I have not seen a salt grid. I had pictured them to be relatively thin and that the pickup would not draw from below the grid surface. I was presuming wrongly I suspect. From what I am wondering from responses on this thread, could it be true that
1. a properly placed pickup with the air check valve on the dip tube could pull water far below the surface of a salt grid?
2. that a refill of 4 gallons might not raise the brine level significantly visible above the grid to where a fifth gallon would make the water much more visible in the tank?
3. the pickup could sit in some cavity/hole that extends beneath the top of the grid but yet solid salt would not go below the top of the salt grid? Is that some singular hole made for the purpose of connecting with the air check valve on the dip tube?
On the thing about checking the right faucets, I am familiar with some houses in moderate hardness areas only having soft water piped to the hot water.
Regardless of the type of air check or brine pickup tube, there is always brine left in the salt tank. Fresh water (Refill water, softened or hard) classifies on top of it because of the heavier brine staying on the bottom. Refill water will always dissolve any salt it comes in contact with, regardless if the salt is in hollow grid legs or on top of the grid. It takes 2-3 hours to dissolve salt to solution saturation. Plastic grids and their legs are perforated to allow refill water to contact the salt. The people wanting the refill to stop at least 1" above the grid are proving refill water classifies on top of the brine and that just 1" of contact will dissolve salt. Now IF 50 lb block salt is used, there will not be any salt down in the grid legs.
You do not have enough fill time based on the BLFC of .125. Change the BF to 32.
Ok, I believe I have this Fleck 7000 unit working better.
Yesterday I added 2 gallons of water to the solution to get 1 inch of water sitting on the grid. Added salt to cover the water and let sit overnight.
This morning I did another re-gen and observed the stages. I bumped up the Brine Fill from 20 to 32 (per suggestion from mialynette2003) before the re-gen. Here are the settings:
C = 30
H = 14
BF=32 (Changed from 20)
The water draw during the BD cycle finishes about 30 minutes into the 60 minute cycle. The final capacity after re-gen went from 1535 to 2396. Also, the water fill after the BF stage results in about 1 inch of water above the grid. Soft water is more present now and the hardness at the kitchen sink reads 8.
I should mention that all plumbing gets water from the softener (except the outdoor faucets).
If anyone has any final comments, feel free to append. Thanks all for the assistance.
Programming guide below.
This is for a higher quality water setting, not as efficieint though.
Mustang, since your softener hasn't been regenerating properly you haven't been removing all the hardness from the resin. That means your capacity is reduced and that is why you are getting hardness through the softener. The cure is to change the salt dose (minutes o refill water) to 15 lbs per cuft of resin and then do 2 manual regenerations with no water use during or between them. Then change the salt dose to what it has to be for the capacity you need between regenerations including a 24 hr reserve. You can learn how to do that by clicking the Click Here link in my signature.