Okay, I just measured the flow rate from the drain line with a gallon container. I gave it a 7 count to fill the gallon container, so that average's out to a little over 8.5 GPM I would guess. I called the public works department and asked them about water pressure and he new exactly where we were and said that we would probably average somewhere around 50-55 PSI where we are. He also advised us to set the softener at about 25 grains, even though the water test only showed 18 so I'm torn there on what exactly to set it at.
I'm not sure how pressure affects the flow rates through this DLFC button, could that be why we are pushing carbon through the drain line? I called the purchasing company and they are sending me a 5GPM button to try. Is this the correct solution? I don't want to keep rinsing carbon down the drain.
I also checked the temperature of the cold water. It is about 53.8 degrees currently. I noticed while searching the forums that temperature was discussed a bit in these instances so wanted to provide this information as well.
If it is a Fleck or a Clack system, water pressure has little to do with the flow rate, the DLFC buttons self regulate according to pressure.
The water temperature is the critical number. Cold water is much denser than warmer water and needs to be compensated for.
A 5 gallon bucket is 5 gallons with a few inches to spare from the top, so your measurement is probably closer to 7 GPM.
Well I was measuring to a 1 Gallon container that I previously hand measured one gallon into so I knew exactly where the fill line is. I guess the question is, is going down a size to the 5GPM button the correct answer?
Originally Posted by ditttohead
Wanted to give you guys a picture of what you helped purchase. Thanks for all the help now if we just get this drain line media issue resolved, I should be good to go. While I was snapping this picture, I checked the peak flow rate on the softener, the bathtub running must be capable of 12.4 gpm. Our original estimate of 12 was pretty good on that, so I think my estimate of the 8 GPM with the same measuring method is probably also pretty close.
And Dittohead, those 90 degree kits you recommended worked out great for this.
Very nicely done. Looks like the tanks are basically against the wall. Congrats, your systems should last you for many years of trouble free service!
Yep just this Carbon Media Trouble...Still not sure if reducing the button is the correct fix or not...I guess we give it a shot.
Considering the temperature it makes sense. You will expand the GAC over 30% at 40 degrees, compared to 15% at 80 degrees. Check out the charts on this link for details. Proper backwash rates are about bed expansion, not just a raw number that most companies use. Cold water requires lower backwash rates, hot water requires higher backwash rates.
Thanks for that. That information helps a bit and makes the reducing the button size seem like the correct option in this case. Another clarification would this also be why while I was looking at the drain line, it actually ran clear for about 5 minutes, and then that is when the media started to come out of the drain line...does that make sense and support this same theory.
Thanks for the input, I'm understanting more with every question.
As the system backwashed, the cold water will raise the media. At a certain point, the media will stop raising and simply fall back down. A top screen preventsthese random pieces of GAC from making it out the top of the system. Many companies prefer to not use a top screen so as to get rid of these lighter pieces of media. Water softeners always have the lighter broken resin beads on the top. Systems without top screens allow these fines to exit, possibly extending the softeners life before the loss of pressure is noticed.
Long story short, yes, this is normal especially with colder, denser water. You wont notice it on the softener because the top screen prevents the fines and lighter resin beads from leaving the system even if the flow control is slightly larger than it should be.