3 valve tub valve distance from C/L to front of tiles, need 2 5/8"

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by hj

if you BOUGHT a PricePfister 3 valve diverter, it should NOT be the one in your drawing, unless it is very old. ALL the new ones are ceramic stems and use an entirely different flange and retainer.

---

It is for sale here:
http://www.wayfair.com/Price-Pfister...1-PPR1002.html

Their link to the exploded parts drawing is:

http://common.csnstores.com/common/m...1002_parts.pdf

The one I bought is different; it has ceramic stems but when I handled it I noticed that it was so much shorter from C/L to end of the casting than my existing unit; and I realized that if I removed the stem assy, the opening would be behind the wall. And even though the one for sale above has compression stems, the valve body is also short.

So is it standard practice that these short-bodied units will end behind the wall? Or do you cut the 2x4s away in order to move them forwards enough? Is Eljer just a totally unique long length?

[QUOTE}

So is it standard practice that these short-bodied units will end behind the wall? Or do you cut the 2x4s away in order to move them forwards enough? Is Eljer just a totally unique long length?[/QUOTE]


With all due respect....you are not wanting to listen to what we are telling you. YES, it is standard practice for the valve body opening to be within( behind ) the finished wall. You are not likely to find anything different, and if you move it that far forward, the trim will NOT work. Sorry to be harsh, but there are some realities in plumbing. IF you just push on and actually solve your riddle, by all means send us some photos.....we are not crazy and are willing to learn ( but don't try to teach hj much!)

So you normally have to use a long socket to remove the stem assembly? I've always just used a wrench since its in front of the wall. Seems like Eljer made a superior design. Its just common sense to design it that way !!! Wonder why American Standard stopped production when they got Eljer.

How about if I take a piece of pipe large enough to fit over the end of the valve body, and tilt it downwards a little. Fasten it somehow, and plug the back with some duct seal. That would make sure any drips were diverted to in front of the wall... probably have to enlarge the hole in the tile a bit...

Looks like I want an American Standard. Their Hampton style has the long, threaded valve body that I need, but its expensive:

http://common1.csnimages.com/docreso...903/0/7753.pdf

The Colony/Colony Soft looks similar, affordable, but the drawings don't give that fore & aft dimension that I need to know:

http://common1.csnimages.com/docreso...903/0/7697.pdf

http://common1.csnimages.com/docreso...903/0/8794.pdf

American Standard is WAY, WAY, down on my list of preferred faucets. The Pfister faucet has a lot more latitude than you giving it credit for. That is the reason the retainer tube has a long and a short side from the "ring". The short side is used when the valve is close to the surface and the long one when it is set back further. You are making the process a lot more complicated than it has to be. Incidentally, the body for the ceramic and/or compression style is EXACTLY the same, which is why it can be converted to the ceramic style.

"the retainer tube has a long and a short side from the "ring". "

But that still leaves the stem/bibb behind the front of the wall. I can't get my wrench onto it to remove it if it is behind the wall !!!

ALL plumbers carry sockets on their trucks because there are VERY FEW faucets that can be taken apart with a Crescent wrench or Channelocks. MOST of them ARE inside the wall.