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Long story short, we re arranged kitchen cabs, and bought a deep undermount sink. My stub out ended up here:Attachment 17990
Attachment 17991
So I cut out the 2x1 1/2" SAN T , lowered another one 3", and ran it Horizontally 8" or so, and installed a 1 1/2" sweep to stub it out in a better place between the bowls.
Attachment 17992
So my question is, is this really kosher? Or do I need to move the whole island set up over?
It is the way we do it at least 50% of the time.
Thank you HJ. Now for my next question.
Is there a way to legally install like a combi wye on the stub out to use a trap for each bowl? I don't think I care for the directional center t deal.
I think I figured it out. If I add a san t above this one, and stack another one on top to the other side, it's low enough to hit the basket. The disposal was the issue being lower. Thanks again. J
FWIW, that flexible rubber coupling is not allowed inside the house - it should be a reinforced no-hub fitting. Thinner rubber, full metal jacket to keep the pipes aligned.
If I had known that, I would have used the appropriate fitting.. Since I am done, and it's just an overkilled 2" island vent, that should never see a snake, I am going to let this one go. The pipes are only 1/8" apart, and I used it with dishwashing soap to make a slip coupling.Quote:
Originally Posted by jadnashua
Finished product. I like the idea of seperate p-traps for the disposal and sink.Attachment 17999Attachment 18000Attachment 18001
That would fail inspection in some areas as you now have a wet vent on the lower trap.
With what you see here, is there a way to re-arrange the fittings and vents in this space to comply with UPC code?Quote:
Originally Posted by cacher_chick
UPC would be happy with a fixture cross, or to stub out once and use a disposer kit with one p-trap.
A fixture cross puts the trap arms at the same level as the vent, which makes it correct.
Or stub once, and connect under the sink.
There are a lot of things that hj says he does in Arizona that I can't do with inspections.
http://www.terrylove.com/images/sink_dw.jpg
Terry, could I replace the lower 90* sweep with an 1 1/2" wye, making both stub outs the same heigth, and abandon the top stub?
I understand the wet vent thing, but the only danger would be draining both bowls at the same time.
I could use the top as a C.O., and use the single stub. But I hate the idea of those divided t's.
quote; you now have a wet vent on the lower trap.
Isn't that the idea and purpose of a "wet vent". I would not have done THIS installation that way, but have "stacked" tees for multiple fixtures many, many times, (especially if they had different drain height requirements which a back to back fitting would not accomodate), and they were ALL "inspected" and approved.
So HJ, the ultimate question. BTW, I already passed inspection, so I seek practicallity. Do you think it is an issue?Quote:
Originally Posted by hj
What would you have done?
Attachment 18005Okay. I have an idea, so here goes. If I tapped off the vent up high, and ran a 2" across the top, down, and t'd into the bottom trap arm reventing it on the left, would that be legal?
I just hate the idea of crawling under the house and shifting the whole deal over. Thoughts?
What you have is "legal". What you propose to do is "busy work". I have no aversion to the directional tee so I would have left it as it was originally. BUT, if I did "really want" separate openings for each sink, I would have centered the opening and then used a "double Y" with a cleanout in the center opening. You should understand that people pay me for my time, so I do not see any purpose in making the job more difficult just so I can charge more. In addition, no matter HOW it was done, I would not have used a 2" pipe for the horizontal portion.