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I was hoping someone could look at this and see if it passes the "giggle test." I am finishing my basement and had to make provisions for a vent since the length of pipe (2" diameter) running under the slab is more than than 5 feet (I'm in South Dakota and they follow the UPC.) I realize the trap is a little higher than the drain right now; I will lower that down when I go to glue.
Any help on this would be greatly appreciated.
-Nick-
I,ve been required in the past to use a sweep (long-turn 90) where you have the regular 90 coming off the trap. Also,
under the UPC, you need a cleanout, and the slip-joint nuts need to remain accessible.
Thanks for the reply!
From what I read, I thought a medium 90 was sufficient since I wasn't changing elevation direction at all (such as going from horizontal to vertical.) The med 90 is in the same plane as the trap arm and the drain line itself.
I must of read something wrong somewhere else because I thought a cleanout was required if there was more than 90 degrees (on a 2" line) bend after the trap arm.
This whole area will remain accessible since the backside of this tub wall will be in a bedroom closet.
Any other opinions out there on what can be done better?
I think i see what you're referring to as far as the long sweep 90:
706.3 Horizontal drainage lines connecting with other horizontal drainage lines shall enter through 45 degree (0.79 rad) wye branches, combination wye and one-eighth (1/8) bend branches, or other approved fittings of equivalent sweep.
quote; under the UPC, you need a cleanout, and the slip-joint nuts need to remain accessible
If that were true, then there are "millions" of tubs installed "illegally". The cleanout, if needed, is usually on the vertical riser the drain connects to, and I have NEVER made provision to access any slip joint nuts on a tub drain. When there are a tub and shower "back to back" it would be impossible anyway. But, I would never use a sch. 40 "P" trap with a union nut in any case, or anywhere. It appears that the "Y" could have been moved back and the "P" trap attached to it, rather than use the elbow.
So you wouldn't use this type of p-trap? What are the disadvantages over a standard one that gets glued (besides the slight price difference)?
I tried to not use the elbow but I couldn't get it all to line up right. Also, I was worried about the minimum distance (4") required between the trap and the vent.
Thanks again for the reply.
The medium 90 is fine on a trap arm, which is what that is.
A solvent weld p-trap is easier to install and less chance of a problem later on.
That's great news. The medium 90 fits way better. I will go get a solvent weld if thats the better way to go. Thanks for the advice.
The trap might have worked if the "Y" were positioned further back and don't worry about the "4 inch separation for the vent". That is a theoetical figure which has little relevence in the real world. Over time the nut on that trap can crack and come loose.
How critical is the 5' max distance to the trap? I'm at roughly 6' from the "Y" in the pic to the sink vent.
quote; How critical is the 5' max distance
Do you want the technical answer or the "real world" one. Technically, it is inflexible. "Real world" you are fine.
Understood, thanks.