California water is magical
Originally Posted by Gary Slusser
Considering the vast majority of portable exchange tanks are regenerated less than monthly, and the regeneration frequency is based on many factors, resin loading, fouling potential, etc... and after talking to a couple of resin manufacurers, we have come to the same conclusion, common sense needs to be used. Iron, manganese, noticeable sediment, etc can all justify the need for more frequent backwashing. Otherwise, low use residential applications with relatively clean water supplies, well, or municipal (all of my magical california water in the city of riverside is local well water) can be regenerated on an as needed basis.
In PA back in the 1980s there used to be a lot of exchange tanks and over time, dealers using exchange tank used common sense to stop using them due to customer complaints of hard water breakthrough before their tank(s) where exchanged.
Originally Posted by Tom Sawyer
As you should know... many municipal water systems use well water, and others use surface water and/or a mixture of the two, AND the water is treated in settling/filter tanks and/or with a flocculation process in most if not all cases to get rid of visible and invisible 'dirt' before the water is disinfected and sent on its way to customers.
You should also know that although that has been done, all municipal waters create sediment in their water distribution lines running to each customer's home or business and in many locations fire hydrants are used once or twice a year to flush any of that sediment out of the lines as best it can be but, not all sediment can be flushed out.
Although resin should not be used as a filter, it is a pretty good filter media when it comes to removing invisible 'dirt'. As you and I know, a dirt build up in/on resin kills its ability to soften water.
Since many of you were very helpful, I thought I report back after couple months of use.
First, I ended up getting the 2cu ft (64K) Fleck 7000sxt with 32mm distributor tube.
It has gravel underbed with 8% cross link ResinTech resin.
It is connected with 1.5" x 1.25" brass connector available specifically for this model.
The system has following settings:
Some of the observation after using it for 2 months.
1. Water pressure is just fine and I have not experienced any loss of softeness even when running dishwasher, laundry, and couple of showers at once. We have not used our large bath tub while doing other things but as mentioned in the above post, we don't use our large bath tub regularly.
2. As suspected, we don't use water as much as the typical household. Initially, my water softener was regenerating every 14 days via the override as we only used 2,400 gallons every 14 days while this tank provides 3,600+ gallons capacity per regeneration. As you'll notice, I have reset the Day Override to 21 days based on discussion here, advice from vendors, and other forums. I know this is somewhat has differences of opinion but I think it's not a significant risk to foul the resin with 21 days regeneration cycle. I'm also glad that I didn't get 2.5 cu ft (80K) tank as I think it would have been way too big from capacity stand point.
3. I have the Brine Fill set at 16 which I believe is a equivalent of 6lbs/cu ft of salt usage per regeneration. Based on some feedback here, is this illegal in California? Do I need to change it back to lower salt dosage/BF settings?
Thank you all again for your help.
My family is really happy with this unit.
Some of your settings are off. The "64K" capacity is theoretical, not real world. See the picture below for proper programming. A 65K unit is typically rated for 48K in a residential application, or less. California requires the efficiency ratings exceed the programming listed below, but... this is the most popular setting for high efficiency in both water and salt, while maintaining very soft water.
C 64 48
RR 10 5
BF 16 22
This is assuming that the BLFC and injector are correct. Take a look at the back of the valve, you should see a small white sticker that indicate the BLFC and injector size. you should also remove the small grey clip from the brine line and check to see if the BLFC button matches what the white sticker says. It should be a .25 GPM, but a .125 will work just as well. It should not be a .5. The injector should be a red #0, but a #00 will also work fine.
I knew in my mind that 64K capacity is theoretical.
I just didn't put 2 to 2 together by changing the setting accordingly.
Thanks for your usual advice and I'll make the necessary changes to the settings.
Yes, my unit has .25gpm BLFC connector.
Just one final check in.
Based on all you recommendation and the setup, our water softener is running great!
Only regret is that I didn't get this sooner and completely bypass the very expensive and unreliable Culligan system.
Ahhhh another culligan fan
My 2.0 cu ft system will be install soon. Do I use the same cheat sheet from above post? I just re-set the hardness base on my water test result. My water usuage were 3 adults + a baby. I assume the hardness "H" I need to change to my water hardness of 25 and BF setting at 22 or different amount?
The salt time setting 0.25 BLFC setting were "30" for a standard 48,000 grains.
The cheat sheet above will work fine, but many people set the salt setting lower. Personally, I prefer to have a slightly less efficient system in favor of the higher quality of water the system will produce. It all depends on your exact water source, competing ions, etc. If you want to program the system to use 20 pounds less salt per year (approximately $2 savings), let me know. I can post the cheat sheets for 4 and 6 pound settings.
I prefer water quality over salt saving... lol I believe the above setting were for 8 lbs setting? what are the 6 lbs setting like? 16?
By the way, my partner is looking for a softener too and his water source has iron. What other type of filter does he needs? Carbon filter?
Thanks in advance