new valve doesn't work
I recently replaced a valve because an old one was sticking open. I tried everything to fix it ( used another valves solenoid , rewired , new diaphragm , blown out....) with no success so i decided to replace the valve. Put the new valve in, wired the solenoid , nothing happened. Will not turn on with the manual setting on the timer , but i do have power to the solenoid. Turned the solenoid and little valve knob and Will not turn on. Water is on and the other 2 valves in same box are fine?
Please help!!!! Any ideas are greatly appreciated.
I would check the center flow control knob on the valve to make sure it is open enough. Sometimes they can be turned closed from the factory without being noticed before being installed.
IF the manual operator will not work, then there is a problem SOMEWHERE around the valve, but since we do not know whether you replaced the entire valve, or just the top of it, we cannot advise as to the cure. HOWEVER, if the old one did not operate manually, I would have done some more testing before doing ANY of the things you did.
I have a similar problem. One zone was not shutting off - low pressure water was continually coming out the sprinkler heads. I replaced the guts to the Toro valve. The leaking stopped but then the valve would not open with the timer. I could manually operate the zone by opening the bleeder on top the valve. I replaced the solenoid and checked it is operating. I replaced the entire valve and it still would not operate. I even removed the solenoid plunger trying to simulate the solenoid always being open. It would not operate.
I gave up and called a technician. He claimed I had left out the diaphragm spring (not the solenoid plunger spring). I am 99.9% sure I had the spring in the valve, but the bottom line is the valve now works properly. I thought I understood the operation of the valve but I can't understand how a missing spring on top of the diaprahm would prevent the valve from opening. It would have less force on top to keep if closed and would be then more likely to open. Does the technican's explanation make sense? How could a misssing spring prevent the valve from opening?