Not likely. If the casing terminates in sand, it is likely just a sandpoint. If it is set in bedrock and the bore continues, the rock itself is the screen.
Your footvalve is your checkvalve.
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best way i've found to do it is set packer above hole, instead of a foot valve on bottom of jet assembly use a brass check valve, then male adapter with however much 1" pvc to get a hair past where the jet was set originally just to be safe... on the bottom of the pvc use 2 glued couplings squeezing a 3rd leather cup to seal off the bottom of pvc... bad spot blocked. no working on the well again though so start saving. i have seen bandaids like this last over 10 yrs.
Hey, I like your suggestion. The second leather below isolates the bad section of casing. Of course, sand can fill up the space between the packer jet and lower leather hence your warning that there will be "no working on the well again".
correct. only way i know to fix it and not pull trash water from the hole. last resort patch.
LLigstfa's right!
Even those that think that they know it all. . . don't always!
I'd try LLigstfa's solution first.
Sorry, I missed this question. A jet pump pushes better than it pulls, so putting the jet/venturi as low as possible produces the best results.
As for Porky's last comment, I'm confused. I have not seen any bad advice and in fact the only advice is justwater which I agreed with. Whether or not you would pull sediment or contaminated water through the hole in the casing if the lower leather was not used, is anyone's guess since we don't have details on the well, formation, etc..
i've determined there is hole in the 2" casing at about 14.5 ft. my intention tomorrow is to reinsert the well pipe with the foot valve on the bottom, the 1" pipe up to about 13.5 ft.below the well head, the ejector packer, then the balance of the pipe to the well head. if anyone sees fault with this plan, please inform me. thanks
(don't know why, but i didn't see the last six postings 'til just now)
i'm sorry, justwater, but i'm not totally clear on you description. i understand the intent to create a seal above and below the hole in the 2" while letting the 1" pass through, but you say "however much 1" pvc to get a hair past where the jet was set originally"--- it was originally set near the bottom of the well; --- "on the bottom of the pvc... a 3rd leather cup to seal off the bottom of the pvc." in my mind's eye, that looks like a 1" diameter deep well. after the third leather cup is affixed, then what? an open pipe? a foot valve? am i right to assume the cups are actually to be seated just above and just below the hole, while the remainder of the pipe continues to the bottom of the well? your plan is the direction i'd like to go in the morning, so please reply.
it's just an open pipe off the jet/check with seal at bottom to block hole. u know u can put the bottom seal 30' total so don't go less. The more old steel pipe u can comfortably block off the better off u are.
or u can come strait off the jet assembly with the tailpipe (no inline check valve) and set a footvalve at the 30' with a seal just above the foot.
Good luck.
many thanks!! one more question: i recall there's a dispute--- to soak or not to soak leathers. i worry about pushing a seated leather over the hole and down a likely corroded pipe. any thoughts?
i do not soak leathers. I just flare them out with a flathead screwdriver and install. they can soak/swell when set in place.
it's holding water!!! today, the pump...
i'm a historic hone renovator and antique tool woodworker who, unfortunately, lives in a modern world. so i'm occasionally forced to seek help with computer software and hardware. (i'm also poor, so nothing's ever new.) i comb through pages of insulting, back-biting and positively uncivilized behavior at the computer help sites, hoping to find buried, rare pieces of sincere advice. what a breath of fresh air to come to a site like this, where the only input is knowledgeable effort to actually help a poor ignoramus like me. thanks to everyone. i'll let you know how it comes out.