Leaking Grohe model 34-436.

Wow.

I am having this exact same problem. The 34436 was installed in May of 1997. When the lever is turned all the way to the left the tub spout leaks. My assesment was the same, I concluded it was the stop valves. I tried to find the right sized o-rings, but to no avail.

I ended up calling Grohe parts (630) 582-7711 and asked for technical assistance. They agreed that it was the stop valves (part no. 08.355) and I asked if I could replace just plunger in the stop valves. They said no, but there is a washer set that I can use to replace all of those washers and o-rings. THe part number for that is 47.045, and it lists for $26.00. It has the o-rings for the hot and cold sides and the replacement screens for the stop valves.

I am curretly looking for local distributors so I can buy one on the way home from work.

Per the Grohe technician's advice I plan to replace the rings on the plunger and lube them. I may replace all of the o-rings that are available in the set. I have seen no evidence of pitting or corrosion in the valves, so I am thinking it is just the rings.


So far Grohe's assistance has been very helpful for me.

I do find it kind of strange that a several people have written here with pretty much the same problem in the past couple of months.

I will write back with my results.

Thanks,
NoPlumbingAbility :confused:

Well, I purchased The Grohe replacement washer set (part number 47.045) from a local Grohe dealer. I replaced all three o-rings on the plunger in the stop valve on both sides. I also replaced an o-ring in the outside of the stop valve (the part that holds the screen) on the hot and cold sides. The leaking stopped.

The replacement washer set contains far more washers than I needed for this job, but that is OK. I hope I never need the remaining washers to replace o-rings in the thermoelement.

I was happy to replace the middle washer on the valve stop plunger and the washer by the screen, as both were pretty well flattened, and one fell apart as I tried to remove it.

The washer replacement kit came with a small amount of Grohe's lubricant, which I applied before re-assembling the stop valve, Things went back together pretty easily.

SO, overall Grohe support and thier local dealer helped me get a solution to this problem. I think there is another washer set available that replaces just the two washers on the stop valve assembly (near the screen). This washer set may have done the trick as well. I do not have that part number in front of me, but it consists of a total of 4 washers, two for each side.

This is a great forum, and I will probably return seeking advice on other stuff in the future.



Thanks,
NoPlumbingAbility:eek:

I bump into this thread while researching how to trouble shoot a recently developed weak water flow from a grohe 34436 valve. I have eleminated any blockage in the hand shower head and flex host. One noticable symptom is that adjusting temperature may result in a temporary increase in water flow.

User "lambtron"'s 10-05-2006 posting referenced a stop valve filter. Where is such filter located?

Currently, I have disassemble sufficient parts to expose the frontal wax cartridge, and shut off the hot/cold service stops.
What is a safe way to take out the wax cartridge?

Below are the URLs to the valve schematics and part list:
http://db.grohecatalog.com/upload/p_explo/E34436US.jpg
http://db.grohecatalog.com/upload/p_spare/sp34436.gif

Thanks in advance.

After some tinkering, I was able to access the stop valve, and find that the
filter is a piece of wire mesh wrapped around the middle of the valve stem.
The filter is cloaked with debris. After cleaning the filter and flushing the
valve, the water flow is backed to normal.

The comments in this forum has been extremely helpful.
Thanks again.

Hi, this is my first try at using a forum. I happened to run into this string and was glad to read that you have been able to fix the problem of low water pressure. I am having the same problem. I have taken the front of the valve off but can't figure out how to take the stop valves out to clean the filter. I took out the two slotted screws which exposed the ends of shafts Iin the stop valves) that can be rotated clockwise and counter clockwise as well. these shafts are held in place with flanged hex nuts which I cannot access with a wrench to unscrew and the shafts stick out too far to put a socket on these nuts. i would really appreciate any details that you can provide as to how you took the stop valves out and also if any special tools were needed.
Thanks in advance for your help.

KT444,
I happen to have a socket deep enough to use the wrench to take out the stope valve.

Thank you for the response. I did get a deep well socket and cleaned out the stop valve. I tried the shower and the pressure is great. However, when I tried to put the valve back together, a strong stream of water comes out of the stop valve split screws. I was wondering if you have an idea as to what I am doing wrong. Also, I don't understand why there are holes in the screw caps for water to come out since it can only go into the wall.
Thanks for your help.

Thanks to this forum for giving me enough information to start my repairs. My eight year old Grohe shower valve 34-436 was dripping. I could not find the O-ring repair kit mentioned above at any dealer or even the Connecticut Grohe distributor. However, two of the three I talked to said that the solution was replacement of the complete stop valve assembly, not the O-rings. The other did not offer a comment. It seems the cost of the assembly is $160 (not sure if that’s for a pair or not). I e-mailed Grohe tech service (see http://www.groheamerica.com/s/25_406...contactus2.htm) and asked if O-rings only would do the job. They said I should replace the whole stop valve assembly and sent a pair to me under warranty. P/N 08 355 00M. My experience follows. Do it at your own risk. I suggest that you get the valve assemblies from Grohe and then use a plumber if you have any trepidation.

Make sure you mark each part as to the order removed and which side faces forward. Use the diagrams at the locations listed below to help you:
http://db.grohecatalog.com/upload/p_explo/E34436US.jpg
http://db.grohecatalog.com/upload/p_spare/sp34436.gif

You will need a 17 mm socket to remove the stop valve assembly. Since the stop valves are spring loaded and push into the assembly, it does not have to be a deep socket.

Replacement is a little tricky because the whole volume control assembly (including the stop valves and yoke) wants to push outwards until the retaining ring that holds the volume lever is replaced. When the assembly moves out too far, water squirts out of the holes as mentioned in a previous post. Since you have to turn on the service stops before replacing the escutcheon, volume control lever and retaining ring, it becomes impossible unless you shut off the water to the bathroom first.

The squirting water is a normal consequence of the stop valve design and is usually prevented from happening by an O-ring internal to the valve. When the valve is pushed out too far, the O-ring becomes useless and hence the squirt of water. This will not happen with the volume control lever retaining ring in place unless the yoke plate attached to the stop valves is not adjusted properly (perhaps this is the problem observed in the previous post). I suspect that the hole is there to relieve air pressure internal to the stop valve as the yoke pulls it in and out. However, if the O-ring should fail, it will be a heck of a mess that you won’t detect until the walls or ceiling show signs of water damage. I hope I’m wrong about this observation, but I don’t think so.

You must adjust the yoke assembly before replacing the escutcheon. This means you first have to put the yoke, volume control lever and retaining ring in place without the escutcheon and adjust the yoke position by turning the white Teflon ring (using the volume handle) counter clockwise until it stops. This is the off position. Mark the position of the white ring at that point. Then disassemble and reassemble with the escutcheon in place and positioning your mark properly. Don’t forget to turn the service stops on. Turn the bathroom supply on after assembly.

so where does the leak actually occur from the thermostat ? I have a similar grohe fixture. I see a leak after 45 minutes. on the other side of the wall from the shower stall in by guest bedroom carpet.

It started as a leaky faucet and the valve being to tight for my wife to turn on the faucet. So I ended up changing the thermoelement cartridge and the stop valve and my faucet had no leak and was easy to turn on the faucet lever. But now my hot and cold doesn't work I only get one temperature in water. I just can't figure out, could it be the service stop or should I give up? Any ideas I would appreciate any advice that could be given? Thanks.

Check to see if the water is piped correctly to your valve.
A lot of times a plumber will reverse the hot and cold and this will mess up the thermostatic cartridge.
A plumber when finding this error will put in a reverse cartridge instead of re-piping the valve.
When you replaced the cartridge you may have put in the correct one for the valve but not for the piping.

Perhaps someone can help to diagnose my problems with a 1-year old Grohe 34-436 unit (at this stage I must admit that it’s had the problems since it was installed – it’s taken me until now to try and solve them ;), prompted by finding this thread and realizing that others have problems with this unit as well…!):

1) Although the input water supply temperatures are 72 and 122, the full range (from full cold to full hot – past the stop) from the valve is only 96 to 104 degrees.

2) The water flow is relatively weak, and the water only comes on after the lever is moved past the half way point.

I have stripped the unit and cleaned the filters (didn’t have much gunk on them) and with the stop valves and element removed flushed the system (and this showed that the supply pressure was ‘good’ although I don’t know how to measure it more precisely).

And a reassembly question – do the stop valves tighten onto the black plastic escutcheon attachment collar, or do they tighten directly onto the brass body?

I used the Grohe ‘contact us’ system to seek their suggestions but didn’t get a response. Any ideas out there…???

If you get differing tempertures i would say it was the cartridge, but if your getting low flow i would say there is a blockage.
The stops and valves thread directly into the body.
Attachment 2941
On the unit there is two stops and two stop valves with strainers have you checked all of them?
You can also give them a call
GROHE AMERICA, INC.
241 Covington Drive
Bloomingdale, IL 60108
U.S.A.
Phone: 630-582-7711
FAX: 630-582-7722

Many thanks for the suggestions.

At least part of the problem was that the installers (all 4 of them puzzled over how to install this fitting) screwed the inner stop valves onto the rim of the black plastic escutcheon attachment collar rather than directly onto the brass body of the fitting - that restricted the amount of inner stop valve movement. Last night I quickly fixed this and there is now much greater temperature variation and slightly greater water pressure from the shower head (a Relexa Ultra - perhaps this isn't a great shower head for strong water flow?).

I haven't yet stripped out the outer stops - I was using them to shut off the supply and didn't realize that they have filter screens as well; I'll do that in the weekend.

THANKS !

I replaced the o-rings in the stop valves last night to fix the leaking shower, but this morning all I got was hot water out of the tap. My guess is that debris got into the thermo unit, but I am unsure how this item is removed. I tried loosening it with the 22mm hex, but it only budged a degree or two - is this a threaded unit? This is an older model (my guess is 10-15years old put in by the house's prior owner).

Is there any trick to remove the cartridge?


Thanks,

Ted