I have this same problem with delayed ignition....almost.
First off, this has been an info packed thread. Thanks to all the pro's that have chimed in.
Now my scenario.
And before anybody judges me, I have called a local service man to come take a look tomorrow. But in the event that he doesn't find anything, I still wanted to pass this by you all.
I assembled a TT Prestige Solo 110 NG with Indirect DWH Smart 50 in my 80 year old house this past fall. It all went reasonably well and I have had problem free heating for the past 6 months. The biggest problem I have had so far has been short cycling which I know is a result of having only a handful of little second hand Slant Fin baseboard radiators upstairs, so the thermal mass of my hydronic loop is very small. I am getting close to the end of my basement reno and will be installing bigger panel rads and that should help a lot. I know that having this equipment cycle like this is terrible, but I hoped that it could get through one winter until I was in a position to install the rest of the heat emitters.
But the real problem that I am worried about is the same DELAYED IGNITION problem as these other gentlemen. Because I have so many standby cycles (state 6 where boiler has reached max temp but there is still call for heat), this was happening quite frequently. A fairly deep THUD noise on start-up. The other day I got freaked out to the point where I turned off by boiler and will only turn it on now to heat up our 50 gallon DHW tank. Electric space heaters are on for the time being, and hopefully the service guy can help out tomorrow.
Now some details.
1) I have never had the E02 for failed ignition. So I really don't think that I am having the bad controller issue (green dot=good, no green dot=bad)) that many have talked about. My boilers SN does fall within the affected range, but my unit has never failed to ignite.
2) I never did have a professional adjust my fuel/air mixture. I am now realizing how stupid this was and hopefully tomorrow the service guy will have his combustion analyzer and make sure that my unit is dialed in.
3) Now my last symptom....I smell raw gas when I am in state 6 (burner off due to reaching max temperature). I know this is BAD. I know that everybody will say you should NEVER smell gas. One other post on this thread made mention to this. The location of the smell is very clearly coming from the air intake. So my thoughts on this are that my gas valve could be leaking and diffusing out through the air intake while the blower isn't on? This would also cause a really rich mixture on start-up and cause my delayed ignition as the vent would already be flooded with fuel.
So my thoughts are
A) I just have a bad air to fuel mix and the gas valve adjustment will sort this out.
B) My fuel valve isn't sealing properly (maybe due to the many many ignition cycles I have put it through by short cycling the machine) and creating a rich air/fuel mix that upon ignition, is combusting in my vent.
Anyways, any thoughts would be very helpful.
I have the VERY same problem!
I am now on my 4th gas valve in two years! Yes, there is gas coming through the air intake tube, sometimes fills my utility room with gas stench. I've been in touch with both TT and Honeywell (who makes the gas/air intake unit), both say "There should be no gas!" But, I can tell you that there is gas, and has been identified by both my gas supplier, and "professionals" (who have actually replaced the valves). So, it is verified.
I am beginning to look again at heat inside the cabinet, and Post Firing air purge time. The air purge time is factory set at 30 seconds, and no instructions on how to change. TT has never mentioned this as a potential fix, but they have replaced 4 valves! Also, (if at my house) if I get wind blowing directly toward my exhaust and intake pipes, I get gas coming out into my house. So, here again, perhaps ALL of the gas has not been purged, and blows back down the exhaust, up through the heat exchanger, and back out through the fan, and down that little plastic intake pipe!
Also, I seem to have more problems when it is very cold, and the unit has been working hard at nearly 180 degrees. Inside the cabinet, it gets pretty hot. I've measured the temp in the past, but readings fell within the Honeywell operating range for the valve. So, I really feel that "The Buck" is being passed on this problem.
Originally Posted by Jason C
Micro-explosions in the exhaust of a Prestige Solo Triangle Tube boiler
I had a prestige Solo 110 Triangle Tube water boiler with a hot water heater installed. I did not realize I was having micro-explosions until one day when I was standing in front of the exhaust. I reported it to my contractor but he did nothing. The explosions continue and with they happen now they blow the condensation tube off the bottom of the boiler. I was wondering if Larry found a solution to his problem?