Hi, I have a question about a noise, sounds like the ductwork popping in & out when someone sits on the commode and gets up. Is there a way to fix this? I bought an elogated toilet so it is longer than the old one was. My older son thinks it is because of that.
Also, the valves under the sink are still dripping slowly, leaking. What does he have to do to fix that??
Thank you, and Happy Thanksgiving to you all!
Please smile when you read this. I've just got to tell you how much I love reading your posts. I don't have many answers, leave those to the experts, but you put a big grin on my face on a regular basis. We've got to find you a new husband.... :)
Happy Thanksgiving, Tom ;)
It doesn't matter what shape the bowl is.
The popping sound puzzles me though.
Dripping shutoffs under the lav (sink)
There are a few ways those could leak.
If they are old, it could be the stems.
If they are new, it could be they are not installed right.
If the flex connector is leaking at the shutoff, it may be that the non-handy-person used Teflon tape where it didn't belong.
Flex supplies come with fiber washers at the low end, and rubber cones washers at the top.
Don't mess with those by introducing leak causing strands of Teflon tape.
Sometimes just removing the tape fixes the problem.
I don't have any suggestion for the "ductwork" noise, I can't imagine how HVAC ducting could be affected by the toilet. As far as the valves leaking, there are two places a valve can be leaking. If the leaks are coming around the valve stem, try gently tightening the nut around the stem. There is sealing material called packing that prevents the water from getting past the stem, and sometimes through normal use, this packing wears away a bit and the nut need to be tighnened. Don't overdo, just enough to stop the leak. The other place a leak can occur is where the valve screws on the the water supply line. If this is where the leaks are, I would recommend shutting the water supply off then removing and reinstalling the valve. Many people like to use the teflon tape to seal these connections, I prefer the old fashioned pipe "dope". It's a heavy paste and can be a bit messy, but with reasonable care the mess isn't so bad that it can't be quickly wiped up. Some folks even use both tape and dope. It's sort of "Different tokes for different folks". Use what you prefer and reinstall the valve. It should be tighten well, but not so much as to twist the supply line. That's no joke, a wrench in the hands of an over zealous strong man can really do that. It is possible that just tightening the valve would do it, but I would assume that if that is the source of the leak, you have already tried that.
Your ductwork noise may be due to something that changed in the floor which is above a rectangular sheet metal duct. Slight flexing of the floor can cause what is called "oil can" flexing of the ductwork resulting in the noise. This may be more pronounced if the duct is some certain temperture. If the commode is above an unfinished basement or crawl someone can examine from below and wedge a wood sliver between the floor and the duct to stop the flex. Alternatively, you can sometimes take off the heat grill and reach back in the duct to wedge a stick in the up and down position to keep it from flexing. Good Luck, RW
RRW above gave you the answer. Get a peice of wood long enough to go inside the duct from one side to the other with enough pressure to keep the duct in one place so it won't move. You might have to cut a longer peice a few times B4 it's right.