Whirlpool Flame Lock water heaters, reviews, troubleshooting, repair and support.

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Originally Posted by master plumber mark

I think that their is a gag order in place that Lowes has made
their employees take if they want to keep their jobs.


they simply are not supposed to speak about it,
which to me is rather deceitful....

the new improved whirlpool design that they have half --assed put together
to weasel out of this class action lawsuit is actually worse then the original problem ..

check out the dates on this long list of complaints, most are on heaters that are less than a year old.......

http://www.consumeraffairs.com/homeo...r_heaters.html


you will notice that 90% of these complaints are NOT on the old style units,
most are on the 2007,8,9 brands...






in my honest opinion, Lowes and Whirlpool -- American Water heaters ----simply MUST be owned by the same larger conglomerate, and LOWES is simply being forced to sell this junk by the higher powers running the whole show...

Lowes is not a bad place to buy materials from, but when you have a situation like this where they cannot dump a product that is 100% junk probably under threat of losing their jobs,
and they are forced tho sell another divisions trash,


then no one wins...

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I wish the world were that simple.
Unfortunately, it's not.
Low*s is a publicly owned company, WP doesn't have a controlling share, It's mostly private shareholders and employees themselves.

Like I said, it's most likely a contract that Low*s and WP made years ago, and Low*s can't back out of it. Yes, the Water Heaters are junk, but they have 2 choices; Sell the junk, or stop selling water heaters. With a contract, there is no 3rd choice without serious financial ramifications. Shareholders wouldn't agree to that, ever. They would say "well, can't they just start making better water heaters?" ... and here we are, at this catch 22...

No company makes the perfect decision 100% of the time. Hell, they're doing better than most if they hit 50%. Low*s is doing a good job in that they tend to take good care of the customers. That allows a lot of dishonest people a chance to take advantage, but it also puts the customer first. If low*s corporate made a stupid contract with whirlpool, then that's 1 bad decision that does hurt some people, but it's nothing compared to what other companies do.

Example: Home D*pot firing people who have been there for 10+ years just so they can bring in fresh blood with smaller salaries. Yeah, I would rather be associated with the store that sells crappy water heaters.

[quote=WPHeaterHater;204275]C... hand tight + 1/4 turn, and I'm done, and I've got hot water until the new kit arrives.

quote]

What you have done is jury-rigged in a part which is not correct....does not have the safety limit built into it......SO, I hope your little house on the prairie is not BLOWN TO SMITHEREENS before the proper part gets there!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jimbo

What you have done is jury-rigged in a part which is not correct....does not have the safety limit built into it......SO, I hope your little house on the prairie is not BLOWN TO SMITHEREENS before the proper part gets there!

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Yeah, I'm sure my little house will be fine. If not, I'm insured... However, I'm NOT independently wealthy, so an emergency trip from a plumber is not an option. And if you lived with my wife, you would know that cold water is not an option either.

Whirlpool Water Heater pictures

Why did you delete my post..?
on how to fix the pilot light problem

You might add to it or edit.. but just to delete..? please explain..

All these posts on thermalcouple and air probs.. is a fricken joke .. I told you wht the pilot light prob is and it is going out due to an open circut..! .. This is from an inside source.. from whirlpool.. the prob is the microtemp shutoff.. it should open at 196f as a safty feature.. after a few months it opens at 100 then at around 80 then it totally fails and stays open.. it is not the valve or the thermalcouple or the air prob.. 99 percent of these tanks are failing from the microtemp shutoff circut on the temp probe failing..!!!.

I have fixed 5 bfg tanks in the last month.. why did you delete my post..?

test a few for yourself.. if you have a voltmeter that will test continuity not just voltage test the thermalcouple.. it will be good.. then pull the wires from the reset and test for continuity..the circut will be open.. this only leaves 1 item that is causing the open circut.. the microtemp shutoff.. now pull the wires from the thermostat temp probe and test for continuity.. loop over the microtemp shutoff..and you will find you have a closed circut which means the pilot will now stay on..!.. the problem is the microtemp shutoff.. over the past 4 years I have fixed around 50 of these tanks.. microtemp shutoffs can be purchased at any radioshack.. I bought a 50 count box..

all these posts on thermalcouples and valves..and conversion kits is a fricken joke.. pull your darn voltmeter out and use it, make sure you have one that will test continuity.. I have fixed 5 tanks in the last month..

now I ask again why did you delete my post..????



I just happened across this site while looking for a part.. and could not belive wht I was reading.. lawsuits and experts saying this and that.. I agree these tanks are not the best.. but the air prob is not the real prob.. like I said 99 percent of the fails are caused by a 1/2 inch 196f microtemp shutoff made in china.. that is failing 3 months into use.. this is from a rep in the ft smith whirlpool..
the only tru fix is to ask for the new valve with the new microtemp switch or fix the prob yourself.. $2.00 switch and a soldering iron..or a 2 cent but connector.. and rid yourself of the prob forever.. I have not had one of my bfg jobs call back..!!!


really this thread is so fricken funny.. all these posts and none point to the problem...except the post of hussy250f he was on the problem.. and would have found it if he used a meter that tested for continuity.. I bet if he tests that microtemp shutoff circut for continuity from the valve he has pulled, it will be open and failed..

it should be closed until 196f.. but if he tests it it will be open.. guaranteed..which is causing his pilot not to stay lit..

cheers.. and buy a voltmeter that will test continuity not just voltage..! so you can see the open circut..lol...!

Please do not delete the truth..!
Thanks,
Okiedoki

If you really want to take this to the next step.. ask yourself why the mfg would use a 196f microtemp shutoff, that is not even waterproof and is wrapped in scotch tape..??? thats the real joke.. when you can buy the same microtemp shutoff sealed in rubber and waterproof.. which I use..! a circut that is not waterproof in water.. this is the real joke..!
but this time it came back to bite them because the circut started failing in 3 months.. not 4 years.. as the specs of the circut call for..!.. The main reson for the early failure is because the circut is not waterproof.. as described in the specs... It is the same circut found in a lot of hair dryers and curling irons to keep them from over heating.... a drop of rubber would have have saved millions in lawsuits for this mfg.. what a stupid , stupid mistake..! or was it..?

One of the Mods thought that what you suggested would be a dangerous solution.

Here is his comment
Reason: too dangerous and irresponsible

Of course I only find this website/thread AFTER purchasing a Whirlpool 50-Gallon 40,000-BTU Natural Gas Water Heater
Item #: 285252 Model: UG1H5040T3NV
from Lowes last night. Its replacing a 40g natural gas that has been in use for 15 years. I'll presume that most kinks about this product have been worked out especially since the class action law suit deadline was last year.

Anyways, my issue is that the burner will only stay on for about 2 to 3 minutes. The pilot will stay lit for more than 5 minutes, so I presume that the gas is fine. On this replacement, I have a new gas line, new water hoses and galvanized nipples with those plastic inner lining & heat washer thingys. The vent pathway is sealed after the draft hood all the way to the bucket in the ceiling.

What is causing the burner to go out completely? At first I thought it was the Safety+Plus excess flow valve, but I took that out just to make sure.

Please help! I'm tired of boiling water for my sponge baths!

is the thermocouple supposed to have a flame contacting it at all times? i noticed this afternoon that when the pilot is on, the flame touches the thermocouple but once the burner kicks in, the flame no longer touches the thermocouple. could this be the reason that after about 2-3 minutes (when the thermocouple cools off) the gas gets shut off? i like the safety feature, but the water needs to warmed up.

i opened it up and wiped the thermocouple to make sure it didn't have extra debris and made sure that it, the pilot and igniter are tight so we're good there. is there an adjustment screw to make the flame contact the thermocouple when burners are on? or is there a more accurate solution?

The new Whirlpool heaters are as bad as the old ones.

The thermocouple needs heat.

Sounds like a call to Whirlpool so they can send you a fix for your new water heater.

Whirlpool Water Heater pictures

Troubleshooting WHIRLPOOL GAS FVIR Water heaters---call Mark at 317-714-0759 for free information and tips to repair this troublesome brand of water heater. All remarks stated here are MY HONEST OPINION ONLY.

http://www.weilhammerplumbing.com/

UGH! I'm beginning to learn that. I just got off the phone with Whirlpool Tech Support and they referred me to a "local shop" that will come out. She even gave me some "code" that will trigger the fee for service to be directed back to Whirlpool. But alas, it is after 5pm PST so it sounds like another bucket shower tonight.

I'm curious though, it it work the time/trouble to get this working or should i just venture the return it route. Then get a different brand heater from that orange apron store. I'm hoping this could be easily rectified, because it was a beast to get it in. not to mention that whole transport upright printed on the box. that was not fun at night.

Most of the plumbers are installing Bradford White and Rheem.

You should really check out Marks page on the subject.
http://www.weilhammerplumbing.com/

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Terry

The new Whirlpool heaters are as bad as the old ones.

The thermocouple needs heat.

Sounds like a call to Whirlpool so they can send you a fix for your new water heater.

Whirlpool Water Heater pictures

Troubleshooting WHIRLPOOL GAS FVIR Water heaters---call Mark at 317-714-0759 for free information and tips to repair this troublesome brand of water heater. All remarks stated here are MY HONEST OPINION ONLY.

http://www.weilhammerplumbing.com/

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I see that you deleted that post from the guy who was changeing out the thermal fuse built into the gas valve itself.. actually he might have something, he might actually be right... .... but end up dead wrong.....

the liability of disconnecting or putting something different into that gas valve is not what I need hanging over me for the next 10 years...
I guess the fellow has changed out over 50 of them!!!
Wow...Thats 50 chances for a lawsuit..someday.
Thats better odds than lottery tickets....


If his insurance company would stumble onto this link, I bet they would cancel him in a heartbeat....
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TERRY, I was wondering why I was getting an influx of calls about the whirlpool heaters....

I dont mind talking to people at all about them as long as they are not calling me at 11:45 in the evening.......from texas.

Most are desperate to find a way to solve their problems, but are usually dismayed when I explain the jam they are in...


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also I like what you did on your own site with the
heater info...

getting links to your site like this only sends me up higher on the google food chain around here..

again

thank you

considering the headache i've gone thru since installing the water heater monday, it seems that perhaps there is too much air for this whirlpool unit. the heat rises and escapes the room as it is supposed to. after talking to the plumber over the phone this morning, the flame being pulled away from contacting the thermocouple could be too much air entering the chamber. he explained that once the burners kick in, the unit is calling for more air. since this unit has so much space and opening at the bottom, the flame being pulled away from the thermocouple is collateral damage.

i know it is not a safe nor permanent solution, but tonight i will try to cover the screen under the unit with a piece of cardboard. if the flame remains in contact with the thermocouple then that validates the concept of too much air.

do they make a skirt/shield to wrap around the base? i notice with the previous water heater, it was a solid ring around the base as opposed to the 3 stilts/legs that this one has. i've read about screens to help limit amount of dirt/debris, but will that be enough to limit air intake? and where to get one?

Restricting the air intake could really mess with the fuel/air ratio, and create a lot of CO, and or soot. Probably not a good idea at all. Unless the unit is sitting in a drafty area, it will only draw the air it needs...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ohament

considering the headache i've gone thru since installing the water heater monday, it seems that perhaps there is too much air for this whirlpool unit. the heat rises and escapes the room as it is supposed to. after talking to the plumber over the phone this morning, the flame being pulled away from contacting the thermocouple could be too much air entering the chamber. he explained that once the burners kick in, the unit is calling for more air. since this unit has so much space and opening at the bottom, the flame being pulled away from the thermocouple is collateral damage.

i know it is not a safe nor permanent solution, but tonight i will try to cover the screen under the unit with a piece of cardboard. if the flame remains in contact with the thermocouple then that validates the concept of too much air.

do they make a skirt/shield to wrap around the base? i notice with the previous water heater, it was a solid ring around the base as opposed to the 3 stilts/legs that this one has. i've read about screens to help limit amount of dirt/debris, but will that be enough to limit air intake? and where to get one?

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You really cant get enough air.. and they probably are blowing smoke up your ass here....

if the flame wont stay on the thermocuopling, it could be something as simple as adjusting the thermocoupling to be more into the flame....

you will have to open up the front of the unit and
be sure that the thermocoupling is fully inserted into its port, it could have moved during shipping..

then take a pair of needle nose pliers and simply bent the probe more over the piolit light...

I spin those burner assemblies 180 out, that way I can make all those adjustments without looking through that 2" square glass, having to take it all back apart each time to adjust it.


Of course, this should only be done by licensed plumbers.