Replacement Drain Options for your next Basement Shower
Most bathtubs are piped with copper it seems in high rise projects around Vancouver. In most private homes I see cast iron or ABS.
Connecting to an old copper line is so simple. You can get "No-Hub, MJ, Fernco" fittings that will fit over the copper pipe and then tie into 2" lines. They are labelled with funny code like ' 2" copper to 2" ABS/PVC ' and available online or at any good plumbing wholesaler. I have about 4-6 of every kind in my van.
It's nice to lower the vertical section of pipe and this can be done with a pipe cutter designed to enter a pipe and cut or by removing more concrete and using regular methods.
With your drain set up as is we could install a new three piece clamping drain in about one hour. If the hole was wide open about 10 minutes.
You could install a Proline Drain from Quick Drain USA with a 2" - 2" copper MJ.
You could install an ACO flanged drain the same way.
You could go 2" copper MJ to 2" ABS OR PVC with a short length of pipe and drop a Nobel Drain on top
You could go 2" copper MJ to 2" ABS or PVC with a short length of pipe and install a three piece clamping drain;
this would let you install any regular drain like a CanPlas, Zurn or Watts
or a linear drain from My Shower Grate Shop, ACO, Luxe etc. You could even install a Kerdi drain over that pipe but it is harder to check the connection visually because of the huge flange on the Kerdi drain.
Remember that almost no tile crews carry insurance to hook up shower drains. Make sure a plumber does this if your a GC or builder. If it's your own single detached home you might be allowed but bring the inspectors down to make sure your on the right track.
Always flood test your projects. 1- 3 days is code.
When designing this new shower think about first what it's going to look like. Visit www.houzz.com for design ideas. Once you have a vision - work backward and find out what type of setting material and grout you have access to and like. You will find many tile stores and tile manufactures require the use of modified thin-set. The folks at John Bridge are nice and many times helpful but you will find that most of the helpful posters only recommend Kerdi and with Kerdi you need un-modified thinset. With Ditra you can use both under the Ditra if you have plywood but they recommend modified most times and over Ditra its' always un-modified, unless you use Grani Rapid and Schluter says it's OK. Even then I've heard Schluter say don't use the liquid with Grani and Mapei (who makes it) says always use it. So confusing I know.
Easier to use Nobel TS, Hydro Ban, Aqua D, Red Guard, Wedi or just about ever other product that doesn't have these back and forth rules.
Send me a picture or post one here and you will have a few plumbers chime in and tell you what you can do. Don't ask a tile guy how to hook up a drain. Check your local codes and find out what you can do.
This is a 29th floor Penthouse Guest Bathroom. There used to be a tub. We tied in this CanPlas clamping drain into a 1 1/2" Copper drain line.
Quick Drain USA line drain tied into a 1 1/2" copper line. Here we could reach in and cut out the copper and the plumber used a fire rated 1 1/2" PVC. We added the fireblocking and prepared the slope.
Another condo. 1 1/2" copper to Proline drain.
2" Copper basement Drain - checking depth levels
How deep are you to the water level? From the exsiting grade?
Hooking up a basement drain - replacing a leaking fiberglass pan
DanaK I mean to the water in the pipe - the water level inside of the buried P-Trap.
Is there 3" from the slab to that level? Is there 7".
Copper is pretty soft material and easily cut.
You can see an "No-Hub" fitting in the hole. That is a 1 1/2" copper to 2" ABS/PVC fitting.
How to lower a Basement Shower Drain - 2" or 1 1/2" Copper
Hey Jim if you plan to enlighten the internet world with my "Issues" with the John Bridge Forum please expand a little and explain that I have asked for mis information to be removed and they won't. That I do not care for the "Verbal Digs" to Canadains on a regular basis "Eh". And my largest complaint is that with any question the manufactures guidelines are opening preached but with Kerdi and Ditra they bend the rules for some reason and this is tolerated. Jim your a big writer on John Bridges web site and you send people over there for help - you know all this. Thanks for bringing it up again so I can restate my stand. On the John Bridge web site the go to method of shower construction is Kerdi. If your not pushing it your in for a debate. If you describe any Kerdi install as being hard "Puff" your postings can disappear. These simple points make me believe that the John bridge forum site is a marketing site first and foremost - so I stopped writing over there. But again Jim you know all this.
Originally Posted by jadnashua
There are helpful posters on Contractor Talk. I help out there as well. Stop by over there for a third opinion.
There are helpful posters on Garden Web. Stop by there. For a fourth.
There are helpful posters on many Flooring sites. Plumbing sites. Fine Homebuilding and on and on. But the plumbers are here on Terry's site and there is no way I will listen to a tile guy who is pushing Kerdi over a plumbing site that has plumbers watching over these threads - no way!
The question to ask yourself is why is the person helping you and what background do they have in the field of your question. Ask for a company name. Ask if they are insured. Like me you will find most of the people writing in these online forums are retired, busy pros (like me) or marketing agents working for PR firms. This is your home do your research.
Build the bathroom backwards and find out all the answers.
Here is a standard "No-Hub" fitting joining a Proline Drain with a 2" ABS line.
I use my Dremel with a metal cut off wheel to remove links of copper. This allows us to get the connection point lower. Block the inside of the pipe as these cut off wheels snap easy. I used roughly 18 cut of wheels to remove all these sections. A pipe shooter can work as well but the cut off wheels make for cleaner cuts. The next time I'm going to try and attach these cut of wheels to the Pipe Shooter.
The drain in this picture is a Baby Blue by Watts. It is cast iron and has a connection for a 2" threaded fitting. We used a 2" MPT fitting and a section of pipe. This was a high rise project so off course all the through hole needed Fire Blocking before proceeding. Hilti "Fire Bricks" are great for this application.
Connecting to a 2" Copper Basement Shower Drain
If it was me and we had 4-6" of vertical pipe above the concrete subfloor to the top level of water in the PTrap we would be chipping concrete to lower the fitting. I use my Grinder and a diamond blade to score many lines. Careful to stay away from the 2" copper pipe. Once we have scored our lines a small cold chisel and hammer will pop these out.
Do not send downward blows when chipping. Sideways blows away from the pipe will not stress it. A 2" copper pipe set in concrete is strong. Think about the shape of an egg and a submarine. Your busting concrete not icing a cake so use care within reason - by sending the blows away from the pipe you can ramp up your agression and bang that stuff out.
Don't let your kids watch as cement flys everywhere and there ears and eyes don't need the damage. The grinder is messy. Get a mask and a shop vac. We like to add extra shop vac hose to the exhaust and swing that outside the home.
I own a 1" demo hammer (a dwalt) sometimes if we are chipping a line for a trench drain we drill many holes and then use te grinder for a clean line and the demo hammer to chip.
If your just getting the old 2" copper line to a new drain you won't need to do so much work.
When reverse planning your elevation remember that a rubber liner needs a pre-slope and that you should have about 3/4" of material at the drain side at the pre-slope stage.
Have you decided on which drain you like? Have you worked out a budget for this renovation? Are there any more changes to the fixtures?
This connection question of yours in your original post is an easy task for any plumber. Every plumber I know owns a grinder and a demo hammer.
basement shower drain