HJ,.....I know they are not work hardened. Fortunately I saw the body move a VERY small amount. They did not kink or crack thankfully.
Originally Posted by hj
I just got back from one of the industrial places I do work for, and talked to one of their guys that is a plumber. He said these valves can be a real PIA when they don't come off easily, but didn't really have any hints.
Since you said a good plumber could remove the nut without cutting, can you tell me what the secret is? LOL
I soaked it for hours in WD40 and it would not budge.
I really would like to simply replace the guts of this one for now, as I plan to remodel this entire bath in a year or so. I will need a new bonnet nut at this point anyway, as I managed to dig through the chrome finish trying to get it loose. I hate to try and cut it since I am afraid of hitting the threads on the brass body that the rim of the bonnet nut connects to.
Any other tricks would be appreciated!!
The WD in the name stands for Water Displacement. What you need was mentioned earlier - slather it with vinegar or CLR, or something similar. Do it periodically over say a day or so. The acid will break up the mineral deposits that are holding things together. WD40 (the 40th try to make it work as a water displacement) is not designed to loosen a mineral welded plumbing fixture. If that doesn't work, it may be time to cut it off.
DO NOTsqueez to hard and there is a tool available out there some where to remove the bonnet,also the kit has a wrench in to work on the gasket that seals the ball.
Take a torch and set it to a small flame. Move it around the cap for a few seconds, and then try to unscrew it. If it does not turn EASILY, keep repeating until it DOES. When you reach the proper temperature, it will unscrew as if it had been oiled. You might start the plastic "cam" on fire but that is normal, just don't get into the smoke because it will make your eyes water.
Thanks once again folks for all the suggestions.
I already have one of those little tools to tighten down the packing to the ball. Actually I tightened it a small amount and the leak appears to have stopped for now,.......I know that only bought me some time though.
I am going to soak it in white vinegar for a number of days and try it then. If that doesn't work, I will move to heat as hj suggested. I will probably use my paint gun, as I only have an oxy/acetylene setup being as I am not a plumber. The paint gun I have gets really hot, so I am assuming that should work,.......if not I guess I can buy a little plumbers torch from Lowes or something.
I know I have been a pain per se, but I still would appreciate the part numbers if someone knows what they are.
Want to replace the ball, cam and packing, bonnet nut, springs and seals, and anything else in there I might be missing. I would like to have ALL this stuff on hand before I try this again. Yea,......I have to turn off the entire house and drain down my well until I can get this up and running again.
I probably should have called a plumber to start with, but some of the ones I have met around here don't impress me to be honest. I have seen a number of them that can't even fix a gas water heater. I have fixed a few of them for old residential customers after they had 2 or 3 plumbing companies out with no luck. One was low gas pressure on the valve outlet, another was a bad thermocouple, and the funniest of all was one with a plugged 'spark arrestor' disk that was starving for combustion air.
If I knew a good plumber, I would have called them before I started all this. LOL
Just got off the phone with 2 different plumbers, and told them what my problem is. They both said I had done everything possible that they would have done. I have soaked it in vinegar, and heated it up,.....still won't budge.
I called Delta, and they are sending me a 'dome nut' free of charge. The guy said I will probably have to cut it off at this point. I intend to keep soaking it with white vinegar, and when I get my parts all lined up I will try the torch deal as well. After that I am cutting the bloody thing off!
I guess they realize this is a problem. I never expected a free part for a 19 year old fixture. Some of you don't realize that not every location has an expert plumber like some seem to be that post here. If any of you lived close by, I would surely call you at this point. Most of them around here would simply either ruin the fixture themselves, or tell me I need a new one installed but I have to cut a huge hole in my opposing wall.
I'm gonna get this thing off if it kills me! :))
The ideal torch is one of those small "refillable" ones with a "pencil flame".
Thanks much for the help hj.
Originally Posted by hj
I will get one of those sometime this week when my new dome nut arrives. I have all the other parts lined up.
Never knew that a simple problem could turn into such a PIA to be honest.
At this point the thing is not dripping, but I am sure it will return soon. Tightening that adjusting nut the tiny bit I was able to is holding it for now.
The only reason I have gone to all this over a fixture is because I REALLY want to do a total remodel of that bathroom in the next year. I don't want to have to select a fixture now for what I may want later.
What is the BEST shower only fixture that you are aware of currently?
I am going to start doing some shopping for one. :)
About that "dome nut"...
I have this exact same fixture and had a terrible time removing it today. Funny how all the "Do it Yourself" videos on YouTube don't demonstrate using real-world parts with 20 years of corrosion and calcium deposits. Anyway...
Originally Posted by hj
I tried whacking on the dome nut, whacking on the pliers, whacking me head against the wall - nothing would get the thing loose. I used some WD-40 (which actually doesn't make a whole lot of sense for this particular type of issue) with negative results. Two hours of frustration and counting. Meanwhile the water to my house is shut off. Ugh. THEN...
I found some "Lime-Away", which is a similar product to CLR or other hard water deposit removal sprays. I blasted the assembly with it, making sure it got into the crevise behind the dome nut. I let it soak for probably 3-4 minutes, and then tried the pliers again. POP! It came loose immediately with only moderate effort. *HIGHLY* recommend you try this method first if you can't get the dome nut off.