Removing and installing wall to wall tubs?

Hey guys first post here. Brief introduction, Im an IT contractor and have worked in building maintenance for 10 years in the far past. I do all of my own handywork. I can do everything well, especially good with millwork, plumbing and electrical...but I have not done a tub yet.

I have a 5' wide cookie cutter bathroom with an 80's fiberglass tub/shower one piece combo. I will be "sawzalling" it out and replacing it with an Americast tub and either tile or marble panel surrounds. My question is since the tub is basically stud to stud in the bathroom (wider than the drywalled area), will I need to destroy all of the walls to get the new one in it in? I am hoping to save the walls by walking the new tub into place vertically and flipping it down into place.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gx2QTY7oipQ

If you watch this video you'll see the exact situation I will be dealing with. In fact, thats the same tub. You will see a remark on the video which asks the same question but the answer doesn't tell me a whole lot. If you have experience with this let me know what you did.

Thanks.

That will work as long as the apron at the rear of the tub can drop into the stud bay.

John

You will need some demo. It will easier to visualize when you have the tub on site. It will start out on its side. And as mentioned, you can plan for the tub apron to slide down beteen studs until the tub is horizontal and plumb with the walls.

Basically , it is a geometry exercise, and can be done. There will of necessity be some wall repair....no worries mate.

If you have a 6" wall, there may be enough distance to drop it down, if it is 4", the apron will hit the other side of the wall before it is in position. I always "roll" the tubs in while they are laying on the floor. It takes less "manpower" to do it that way.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by hj

If you have a 6" wall, there may be enough distance to drop it down, if it is 4", the apron will hit the other side of the wall before it is in position. I always "roll" the tubs in while they are laying on the floor. It takes less "manpower" to do it that way.

---

It's 5' (foot) wide stud to stud or 60" like the new tub. So yes Im concerned as to if the apron will have enough room when I flip it down considering the other side of the wall. What I'll have to do is measure diagonally the lower left corner of the apron to the upper right corner where the tile flange is to get the maximum width. Kind of like how you would a measure a TV screen. Since the the wall stud to stud is 60" plus the width of the studs is 3.5" this gives me 63.5" of clearance. If the tub is wider than this it wont work and I'll have to cut the tile flange or demo the walls adding days to my project.

Normally it is a tight fit but I have always been able to shoehorn in a new tub on the remodel.
I've used the Americast tubs a few times, I like that they are easy to handle in comparison to cast iron.
Not as tinny as steel. They also retain heat better in a bath than steel, not as well as the gold standard Cast Iron.
In all I've found them to be a nice compromise.
Michael

Well the tub is 60"x14" So if I do the math for the diagonal width it's 61.6". That gives me 1.9" to work with before I poke the apron corner through the other side of the wall so guess Im good.

Well the tub is 60"x14" So if I do the math for the diagonal width it's 61.6". That gives me 1.9" to work with before I poke the apron corner through the other side of the wall so guess I'm good.

A 16" tub would be tight, but a 14" one will work, it will also be lighter and easier to handle, although the "easier" part may be relative.

I'm always amazed at how people worry about a little bit of drywall repair, yet they want to install MARBLE tub surrounds..