Here is how I repaired this kind of lever: I cut 5mm off the end of a wire hanger from the closet (then put the hanger back), then heated up a pinch of polymorph plastic to 70C (with my lighter on a tin altoids lid) until it was clear, then moulded it by hand in to a ball and jammed it into the space above the damaged metal. Then at the now hot plastic filled gap I insted the bit of metal hanger. The plastic cools white, is strong and hard as nylon and the bit of hanger provides a metal wear point that is tougher than the original casting... better than new. I also reinforced the ABS bracket with the stuff since that can break too... 10 minute fix and I used <1% of my $10 bag of polymorph. (oh and I used some lighter fluid too)
I hate calling manufacturers...
I have just had an issue with the drake flush lever however the problem seems to be in the plastic part that goes thru the tank. The handle was sitting very low almost at say the 5:00 position. I lifted up on it and its back where it should be but I can't seem to be able to get it tight. Any suggestions would be appreciated
A couple of the photos gave me an idea. I had on hand a wooden shish kabob skewer and a stick of JB Weld (epoxy putty). I think this will do the trick, and cheaply. You can find JB Weld at most hardware and auto parts stores. As soon as you put your patch in place, test fit the black plastic screw in part - it rotates, clear any excess putty that might interfere with this before it hardens.
I have never had any problems with our 2004 and 2005 TOTO Drakes with GMAX and those handles are original. :)
I was pretty surprised to look inside my new Toto Drake and find this crappy flush rod. I didn't know these were all generic. It's kind of like buying a Mercedes and finding that the steering system is the same as on a Radio Flyer wagon. It it works flawlessly, I guess it's fine. But it begs the question; would it work better if it were better?
We have several of them, never a problem. If people jam anything really hard, over time, it will break.
As to generic parts, the genius of your Toto is the design of the trapway, and the flawless execution of the hard stuff to make, like the firing of stuff made out of clay.
It is also a good thing that various parts will work in the toilet. For example, Toto uses a number of different fill valves. One they make, one they buy from the US company Korky, which also makes their universal replacement fill valve. I personally prefer the Korky valve. Similarly, most toilets in the US use a standard fill valve. Lots of manufacturers install the Fluidmaster 400A as their fill valve, which is a cheaper valve, made in Mexico, but which also does the job.
Although Toto makes a flapper for its toilets, there are other flappers out there that will fit and will work well. American Standard has a zillion owners of its Champion 4s who wish that American Standard had just used a standard flush valve in the toilet, because they have had to disassemble the toilet and replace their proprietary flush valves due to leaks. Indeed, Korky now has a replacement flush valve which uses a flapper; this product will fit in the Champion 4, installing essentially the system that Toto has always used.
In short, what you bought is a high-quality product that is exceptionally-well-designed, exceptionally-well-made, and will last for decades. In that time, you will likely have to replace some wear parts. The ones in your Toto will always be easy to find and inexpensive to buy.
Now go ahead and love your toilet.