Thanks. The guy said it would be about $150 for the expansion tank installed. Would this be something he should of caught while installing ot testing the new unit? If so, then I should not be charged the full price.
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Thanks. The guy said it would be about $150 for the expansion tank installed. Would this be something he should of caught while installing ot testing the new unit? If so, then I should not be charged the full price.
Maybe, but it probably isn't worth quibbling over. The plumber might have suggested it, but if you had no troubles before I doubt he would have, and there is a fair chance that a homeowner would reject it for that same reason. Realistically, you've got the previously mentioned tank cost, a special tee (depending on the tank nozzle type), a strap, and some misc. materials. If you have everything drained for him it is less than an hour of actual labor. But that first hour of labor is probably charged out at $50-100. So assuming you pay something for the install itself which you would have paid anyway the differential cost of doing it now vs. initially is perhaps ~$50 for his extra trip.Quote:
Originally Posted by walds11
Expansion tanks aren't code required in many areas including mine. Instead they appear to be an "as needed" thing. I've never had need of one before in any of the homes I've inhabited in various states. That is, I've never had a system that didn't soak up the thermal expansion somehow without the expansion tank. But now I do, so I had one installed.
Just guessing, but on most homes connected to municipal system if you installed a test gauge you would probably find the thermal exp. pressure spikes exceed 80-100 psig. These should probably have thermal expansion tanks, but most often don't. Some can relieve back to the supply, but new higher system pressure water pumps/towers and checkvalves might prevent that...tightening of the overall network and toilet fill valves/etc. is likely to increase the need for these expansion tanks in the future.
You are probably right, it's not worth quibbling over. If the hot water heater needs the expansion tank, then it needs it. No way around it and $150 is not going to break my bank. It's just a little frustrating.
I've been checking the bucket every morning. Water in there the last few mornings :( I guess I will be calling the HVAC tech to install the expansion tank.
At least now you know what the source is and that it is not a leak. The valve could be popping early (a test gauge would show that) but it is probably just thermal expansion.Quote:
Originally Posted by walds11
The only thing puzzling is why the other water heater's T&P wasn't popping the same way. One possibility is that it wasn't opening when it should have...
The tech came out today to install the expansion tank...$150 later. The hot water heater cost me more than I initially thought after factoring in the expansion tank. I just can't figure out why now and not with the old unit? Oh well.
You have an extra 10 gallons expanding. Did you install a sprinkler system with a double check valve ? If you have one, the water cannot expand out to the street anymore and can only expand in the house. The relief valve will pee if the pressure is too great.
Ron
Spinkler system with a double check valve? What's that? Anyway, the expansion tank solved the problem, $150 later. Oh well.
I need to replace my mom's water heater (40 gal). Which unit is better for natural gas, Bradford-White or State? Each of my supply houses carry a different brand.
Thanks.
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I'd go with a Bradford White.
The FVIR is far superior to the others in reliability design...
whats a FVIR? ThanksQuote:
Originally Posted by Redwood
Flammable Vapor Ignition Resistance...
Essentially it offers protection if you were to spill a flammable liquid near the water heater the vapors could be ignited by the pilot light or, burner causing a fire to occur. FVIR has a flame arrestor which will prevent flashback and sensors which detect a flammable vapor event which shut the unit down. This protection is now required by federal law on gas water heaters.
The problem is the flame arrestor has a tendency to become clogged with dust and lint that causes a lack of combustion air and a taller flame which triggers the flammable vapor event sensor. Some FVIR water heaters have the air inlet on the bottom of the unit and a flame arrestor with a small surface area which has proven to be problematic especially for the American Water Heaters initial design of its Flame Guard and Flame Lock where they used a non-resettable thermal fuse in the thermocouple resulting in a class action and burner redesign. See the famous Whirlpool Thread Here Or, here is some more good info http://411plumb.com/troubleshooting-...-water-heaters
Once you get past the FVIR units that are designed like vacuum cleaners and into the ones that have the air inlet on the side near the base of the unit instead of the bottom you are essentially left with Rheem and Bradford White. Rheem has the smaller air inlet of the two and is not resettable. Leaving Bradford White as the best IMHO... http://411plumb.com/bradford-white-d...-heater-review
I still do not get the FVIR air inlet on the bottom. Again, as most posts in my past state, I have had a AO smith water tank. No issue and had another one installed. So far in 7 month the screen looks new...I will take a pix. I do not get it since I would love to know how the screens get dirty...
It is also possible that the T&P valve on your old heater was stuck shut and could have ended in a very serious problem at some point. Now that you have a new one the new one is working as it should and a thermal expansion problem was found.