Hi all you guys, I've really found this thread useful, helped me fix the problems out here in Mallorca at my friend's house.
Two points I need to share.
Water Pressure : I think those points are barking up the wrong tree. The valve is help shut by THE SPRING in the solenoid. The solenoid just pulls the spring.
Back EMF (as we call it in UK) has not had a mention. On DC solenoids one would fit a diode and capacitor close to it solenoid.
I'm not sure about AC solenoids, but there are voltage dependant resistors and even two 50V( say) zeners anode to anode across along with a .01uf capacitor should shift and spikes. The programmer should have that protection anyway, but that can be a significant distance away from the valve.
Do keep this thread alive.
Warmest regards, Derek
Okay I am going to help keep this thread alive. In 2006, I had an 11 valve system put in using WM valves and a Hunter C Pro controller. The last 7 years I have replaced selenoid after selenoid after selenoid. At the same time as that installation, I had two additional WM valves put on an existing 6 valve Rainbird system. I have never had any problems with the existing Rainbird vavles or the two new WM valves on the Rainbird system.
I read this post from beginning until the end because I am troubleshooting and open valve. The common theme I saw was that the Hunter C Pro with WM valves had more problems than having a WM Controller or in my case a Rainbird controller.
I was considering changing out each valve but perhaps the controller may be a better route. I do believe I need the updated selenoids as well though since I have been using the generic ones from Lowes. Thoughts anyone?
the WM valves aren't an issue at present - the bad M24E solenoids have all died and been replaced by the new round solenoids, and the valves keep on working