High Water Pressure

I understand that having high water pressure results in higher water bills, banging pipes and appliance breakdowns. However, there is a huge difference in comfort when using faucets and showers at 120psi as oppose to 50psi especially when multiple showers, faucets or toilets are in use at the same time.

Our house has static water pressure of 120psi but when I adjust our pressure reducer valve to make it 50psi, the pressure is way too low and aggrevating when multiples are in use. I have tried it at 80psi and still a little aggrevating. Our house pipes do not bang and our appliances work fine. So, is it OK for me to leave it at 120psi? Our water heater has an expansion tank that is pre-charged at 70psi. Is it true that you should not go more than 80psi. What problems may occur by pre-charging so high?

Please advise. Thank you!

their is no reason you cant do whatever you
want to in your own home...



if you dont like it at 80 psi, cause you like to be
sandblasted by multiple shower heads in your shower
that is your choice..



things will simply last longer if you kick it
down to 60--70 psi.....



ballcocks, washing machine hoses and water heaters
simply live longer with the lower water pressure..

if you are going to leave it at 120.


I suggest that you be sure that your washing machine hoses are braided SS ones.

eventually the expansion tank on your heater will blow a gasket seal inside ...

I hope that your pop off valve is going to a good floor drain for the
day it finally blasts loose...probably at night this will happen.....

so just be sure to pipe that line somewhere

I guess this explains why I had to replace my expansion tank within 2 years of installing it. It waterlogged. I am currently using a 2 gal expansion tank, is it better to get the 5 gal given by high pressure scenario? Does pre-charging it at a higher rate prolong the life of the tank?

Won't the expansion tank prevent the t&p valve from getting damaged?

The t&p valve pipe is already piped to a floor drain.

Lowering the water pressure below 80 PSI will significantly increase the service life of all your plumbing system components.

That may be why most codes that I know of specify 80 PSI Max. Anything above that requires the installation of a pressure reducing valve.

What about my questions regarding getting a 2 gal or 5 gal expansion tank?

Is it better to get the 5 gal given by high pressure scenario? Does pre-charging it at a higher rate prolong the life of the tank?

Is there a better manufacturer for expansion tanks or do they all work the same? Lowes sells Wellsaver. Home Depot sells Watts.

It is better to lower your water pressure to less than 80 PSI.
That is my final answer.

My first and final answer is that 60 psi is plenty of pressure in a home. More than that will shorten the life of appliances, hoses to appliances, and the fixtures that have to hold back the excessive pressure. High pressure will not increase your water bill directly, you only pay for the volume of water you use regardless of the pressure. If you have a volume problem, clean the aerators in you shower heads, sink spouts, and washer. If the lines are plugged, more pressure isn't the answer.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Mikeyboy

What about my questions regarding getting a 2 gal or 5 gal expansion tank?

Is it better to get the 5 gal given by high pressure scenario? Does pre-charging it at a higher rate prolong the life of the tank?

Is there a better manufacturer for expansion tanks or do they all work the same? Lowes sells Wellsaver. Home Depot sells Watts.

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you would have to pump the tank up to 120 just to get equal balance between the pressures..

its probably just a waste of money, but it is your money...

I am sure their are other factors involved with your decison
for high water pressure in the shower...

their should not be more than two people in a shower at the same time...

but I dont think their is any code about that....





.

There is only about a few of spoonsful of water involved to create a large amount of thermal expansion so the size of the tank, and to a large degree the air pressure charge is immaterial. The only thing that will happen is that the greater the disparity between the air pressure and the system pressure the more water there will be in the tank, which could create a weight problem if it is not securely supported. The real problem with 120 psi water pressure is the tendency for faucet and toilet supply lines to rupture and flood the house.

took out this water heater on satruday...and I noticed the pipes were bent way inwards....

I am not sure wether the thermostat overheated this
heater and it was about to explode

or the warping of the pipes on top of it were
from high water pressure...


they had about 98lbs psi..



http://onsmartpages.com/weilhammerpl...0_DSC09255.JPG

you should not have a pressure volume drop after opening multiple faucets. If you are then the PRV needs to be replaced. When working correctly a PRV will compensate and keep the volume flowing when additional faucets are opened.