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I have been reading the forum, looking for a good toilet. The TOTO Ultramax seems to be the standout.
When I look on the internet I see dealers with several TOTO Ultramax toilets with a range of prices. How do I know which one is the one I want?
Does anyone know whwre I can get an Ultramax in the Oklahoma City area? I tried the big name hardware stores and they say they can't order them.
Thanks!
Ron
The Toto site would be a good place to start. Also, you'll be able to seach for dealers in the OKC area.
MS853113S, Regular bowl, 14.5" high bowl, Good for a very small bathroom.
MS854114S, Elongated bowl, What most guys buy.
MS854114SG, Elongated bowl with Sanagloss, Easier cleaning
MS854114SL, Elongated bowl that is also considered ADA, 16.5" high bowl. Good for older legs, it's easier to get up and down from it.
thanks!
I am tiling around the stool. Do I tile around the adapter? Or does the adapter set on top of the tile?
Also, the rubber seal on the adapter, does it need anything on it to seal properly?
Thanks again!
I'm sure glad you asked this question before you screwed up! The flange is supposed to sit on top of the finished floor. NOT below and NOT sticking above the floor. If the drain is 3" ABS or PVC, the flange should fit on the outside of the drain pipe. If the drain is 4", it's your choice of an inside or outside fitting flange. If the drain is cast iron, you need a plumber to lead the joint. Next the flange must be screwed through the finished floor and into the sub floor with several screws. I suggest #12 stainless steel screws long enough to penetrate the sub floor. Be sure to orient the flange so the flange bolts will be parallel to the rear wall. You want the flange center to be 12" from the finished wall, with at least 15" on each side of the center.
Upon rereading your question, I see you tagged this question to another users post and my answer did not really answer you question too well. You are raising the toilet height with the new tile. This can create a problem as your toilet will be recessed by the added thickness of the tile. There are a couple of ways to deal with this. The best way would be a new flange as described above. That will require removal of the old flange which can be a bit of a tricky job and would best be done by a plumber. Another way is to use extender rings that are attached to the original flange and that will raise the mounting height to the proper level. These rings need to be sealed to the flange and each other to prevent leaking. I assume the rubber ring you refer to is a wax less ring used to seal between the toilet and the flange. I would suggest using a regular wax ring instead. Do not use the type with a plastic horn, they tend to cause problems. If you have a new flange set properly or raise the level with the extensions, all you need is a standard thickness ring. The best new flange would be stainless steel. Hope this sets things straight.
I just bought a Gwyneth MS604114CEFG sanigloss ADA height. Have only had it installed a few days but so far it is wonderful. Was going to get the ultra max but decided the
double cyclone flush would be less cleaning,
Thanks for the replies. Lots of good info.
It looks like the Gwyneth would be much easier to install and probably fits our decor better.
Anybody else had good luch with the Gwyneth?
Thanks again!
We have it installed in our womens bathroom (open to the public) for 3 months now and it works great. Flushes great and no marks so far.
I used to ship porcelain across the country.
I was breaking 20% of the shipments.
Sometimes you didn't even know it was a problem until a few months later.
I now hand deliver the Los Angeles and the Seattle area. Less than 1% defects now.
I have been reading the specs on the Ultramax and Gwyneth. They are both around 90lbs.
I am afraid with a bad back and close quarters around the stool area I may have trouble getting the toilet installed.
I am remodeling my entire bathroom myself and trying to save money so I am trying to not have to hire a plumber for this part of the remodel.
Are the Ultramax or Gwyneth available in a two piece configuration? If so, do they cost about the same as the one piece?
I was trying to eliminate the possible chance of leaks between the tank and toilet by buying a one piece. If I have to go two piece, are all the parts between the tank and bowl dry fit? Or should some sort of sealer be used on the tank bolts and gasket?
Thanks again for your help!
Ron
On a two-piece, the connection is all done with gaskets. A one-piece toilet has fewer places for crud to accumulate and (while rare) fewer places to leak, but they are heavier. Many people assemble the toilet before setting it, though, so it doesn't make any difference. A two-piece may have slightly better flush because (typically) the tank sits higher...additional height gives the water a little more 'push'. The manufacturers don't make one or two piece toilets with the same name...although they may make the same style in both. You'd want to scan Toto's website for a style you like.
The Gwyneth comes in both a one-piece and a two piece.
The Ultramax is a one piece, the two piece version would be the Drake.
The one piece is easier to keep clean, and there is less that can go wrong. It's also easier to install.
pretty much the reasons why I chose to buy 3 Eco-Ultramax's -- plus the rebate from the water co.Quote:
Originally Posted by Terry