water service line questions
Hi – I have some friend who are experiencing some water flow problems, when the sprinkler system is on the and a toilet is used the toilets take forever to refill, probably 10 minutes, faucet flow is greatly reduced also. They are considering replacing their incoming 40 year old ¾” copper supply line from the meter with a new 1” line. The water company tested the out flow to the house at the meter and gave them a report saying that there was 83 psi and a flow rate of 23 gpm and gave them a report. They said the 1” line would correct their flow problems. The meter is a ¾” meter. The water company also told them that if they put in the 1” copper that they had to start it a least 5 feet away from the meter set up, so the first 10 or 11 feet of line would be the old ¾” copper. The meter sits in a cement tube and on the outflow side has a gooseneck that bend around and down and connects to the old ¾” copper line. The run to the house is probably 60’ or so. Would appreciate some input from you experts. I assumed that all of the line is equally plugged/corroded and using any portion of the old would not be the best approach. It would seem to make sense to remove the gooseneck and clean it or replace it and then connect the new line to it. Could the new 1” copper correct the flow problems when it is connected to a ¾” meter and ¾” gooseneck???? I know there is friction loss in piping but what your opinion might be. The house has 3 baths with sinks and showers and 3 toilets old 3.5 gal. dishwasher, clothes washer and utility sinks, 2 outside faucets and a sprinkling system for a small yard. They are empty nesters now. Appreciate any input I can pass onto them. Thanks - Don
One more thing, and then I've got to go to work...LOL
If you don’t know the pressure you are getting at the house, I would also go to a hardware store, and purchase a $7.00 pressure gage, that you attach at any of your hose bibs on the house. Even if your pipes are clogged up a lot, (with everything shut off in the house) you still should be getting that 83 psi the city says they are delivering. If you are not getting that 83 psi, check to see if you have a pressuring reducing valve. It also may be clogged. Some of them have a screen built into them.
With that gauge installed on a hose bib, (lets say at the opposite end of the house that your main line comes to the house) you can turn on a hose bib full blast at the main line area to the house, and see what pressure the house is running at, when that amount of water is being used.
Another note; I would be a little concerned on the 83 psi. IN MY OPINOIN, (especially in some of the older homes) I conceder the 83 psi to be excessively high water pressure. I like to see a maximum pressure of 60 psi performed by installing a pressure reducing valve. Unfortunately, some times the only way to get any kind of volume threw a restricted pipe, is to jack up the psi.
another place to check, (I'm home from work)...LOL
When checking at the toilet for any debris, you need to shut off the water to the house, and drain any pressure out from a hose bib, and then remove the SHUT-OFF valve to the toilet, (not just checking the fill valve). I would have a new 1/4 turn style ball valve, (with a new steel flex line) on hand to change out anyways. Check behind the shut off valve, (inside of the pipe) and inside the old valve for debris.
Originally Posted by don metzinger
I just got home from checking out a clients house for the same problem. With everything shut off in the house, I put a gauge on the front hose bib, (where the main line comes into the house) and he was getting 90 psi. When he turned on the back sprinkler system and the pressure fell all the way down to 12 psi. One of the differences between my client’s house, and your friend’s house is that my client’s house has an old galvanized main line. I agree with Hj, that copper line shouldn't have build up in it, (as would a galvanized line would). If there is a point where the copper line hooks up to a galvanized line there should be an isolation fitting at that point. If there is not an isolation fitting there, there will be a chemical reaction between the two at that point, which will cause corrosion. (I can’t remember that technical term; started drinking some good Hungarian wine) maybe tomorrow I’ll remember it.