Ice maker line from cold line of water heater?
At the hardware stores, they say, "Oh yeah, it'll be easy", but I'm getting last-minute jitters. Please pardon any improper terminology and general ignorance... this is my first DIY attempt at plumbing.
So I bought a new refrigerator that has an ice-maker and water dispenser, but there is no existing water line for it. I can't tap off the sink and run a line through cabinets because it's on the other side of the room.
There is a bathroom sink on the other side of the wall directly behind the fridge, but there's no acccessible copper lines (they're in the wall). Just the (stainless steel?) pipe w/shutoff valve comes out of the wall.
The water heater is right beside the fridge in a closet. The vertical copper cold water line -- from top to bottom -- has a (ball) shutoff valve, a threaded 3/4" male end, connected to a copper flex pipe which connects to the nipple of the hot water heater. I bought a shorter flex pipe so that I can insert a T above it.
The horizontal section of the T is 1/2", where I'll solder a 10" section of 1/2" pipe to it. On the other end of the pipe I'll solder a 90 degree L, and to that another 4 feet of pipe which will run vertically, ending about 2 feet above the floor. The gentleman at the hardware store suggested I attach a (sink-type 1/4 turn) shutoff valve at the end of this pipe. It has a compression fitting. This valve outputs to a 1/4" compressioin fitting, where I'll attach the 1/4" copper tubing to run to the refrigerator.
During my research I read many warnings about using self-peircing saddle-valves. A non-peircing drillable valve would be so easy... just attach the saddle valve to the 3/4" pipe, and run the 1/4" copper tubing to the fridge and I'm done. But I'm trying to "do it right".
My main concerns are:
1.) The water pressure. Sounds like a lot of pressure from a major line, which will be made worse by all the reducing down to 1/4".
2.) Using a blow-torch around a gas water heater. I'll assemble and sweat everything outside first, but need to solder the T to a new threaded female adapter in the closet. I will shut off the gas to the heater, and I plan on using a heat-shield.
3.) The flex pipe for the cold line is warm to the touch. It is coolest at the top, so that's where I plan put the T.
Sorry about the length of this. With the new tools and parts, I'm $100 into it and want the satisfaction of doing it myself, but I have to wonder if my male ego is getting the best of me and I should hire a pro. Any help ASAP greatly appreciated... I'm diving in Sunday afternoon.