Watersense requires a 350 gram rating. It's doubtfull that you would notice a difference.
I've been selling plenty of both.
We've always felt that 500 was very good. It's nice to have bowl rinse too.
Watersense requires a 350 gram rating. It's doubtfull that you would notice a difference.
I've been selling plenty of both.
We've always felt that 500 was very good. It's nice to have bowl rinse too.
Is there a difference in the total distance in the wall between the Ultramax II and Drake II (i.e. how far the toilet sticks out?). Also, how real are leaking problems with two piece tanks - enough to go one piece or is it not a real concern? Thanks again for all the help.
The total distance front to back is similar.
Of course there is less that can go wrong with the one-piece design, but the two piece mounting has been fine too.
I do like being able to pull a bowl from the box and just stick it on the wax though. That's pretty nice. No worry about cleaning between the two parts either.
So three down and one to go...I've saved the one I need to re-pipe the supply line. The first one in the basement was a Toto "Ultimate." It's serviceable, but I'm glad I changed the remaining three to the Ultramax II.
I think the installs went pretty well - although not a single mounting flange was the proper height. Two were too low (double wax rings) and the basement one was too high.
These are the two upstairs Ultramax II's:
(1) Master. This one had the supply line about 5" off center. The cover piece just touches the toilet.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-F...0/P1000370.JPG
(2) Hall. This one was about 5 1/2" off center.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Z...0/P1000368.JPG
Would the Ultramax II be a good choice for my petite wife? She is about 5' tall. Does the shorter Ultramax I flush as well? What is the difference between elongated bowls and round ones?Quote:
Originally Posted by Terry
Any male in the house will much prefer an elongated toilet! Essentially all commercial toilets are elongated for that reason. Round is just that, a much more rounder toilet - elongated is more egg shaped, with the narrower portion to the front.Height wise, a normal dining room chair is in the order of 18-19" high at the seat, a toilet, even an ADA height one, is in the same range (often the lower end, though). So, the best thing is to sit on a chair of the same height as the toilet of interest (if you can't find one to try), and then picture yourself doing your business. Most people like the taller seat height, but there are exceptions. It gets to be more of a factor as you get older and your knees and back don't like trying to get up from those low to the ground.
Hello,
I have read posts on Terry's sites for years, but the time has finally come to purchase a new toilet and I had a couple of questions. I have read every post and review on every toilet I am interested in and have narrowed it down to the Drake II or Ultramax II. I like the one piece Ultramax II design the best. The question I have is about the mounting of the Ultramax II. (I'll ask my Drake II question on that thread.) I have a standard 12" flange from the wall. I know the Drake II only comes in a standard 12" rough, but the Ultramax II is adjustable. The picture I saw of the adjustable mounting plate showed 2 more bolts into the tile behind the flange to hold it in place. I also have a tile bathroom and am not looking to drill additional holes in the tile if it can be avoided. I too am looking for a simple POP AND DROP installation. Is this possible with the Ultramax II with a 12" rough or will have drill the additional holes for mounting? If so what would be the correct part number for that model with C2 and SG in colonial white? Also I added my tile during a bathroom remodel so it raised the height of the floor 1/2" above the flange. Must I use a double wax ring (which I am using now) or will a standard ring work? I just don't want to have excess wax that could get into the pipe and affect flushing if it is not needed.
The Ultramax II works on a standard 12" rough and is a standard installation. If you are thinking "Unifit adapter" then you're thinking of a Carlyle with the skirted bowl. The Ultramax II uses the standard watercloset flange in the floor, standard closet bolts and wax. You can pull it out of the box and stick it on the wax. If your flange is lower then the finished floor, you will need to stack two wax rings.The MS604114CEFG Ultramax II is listed this way
C = Cyclone flush (Double Cyclone)
E = 1.28 gallons per flush
F = Universal Height bowl
G = Sanagloss
Thank you Terry!Quote:
Originally Posted by Terry
What is the minimum rough in that is needed for the Ultramax II.
It doesn't look like I'll have the 12" that the specs call for.
The spec sheet http://totousa.com/Portals/0/Product..._G,%20V.05.pdf says that there's nominally 3/4" behind with a true 12" rough-in. You can often fudge the toilet's position on the flange about 1/4" or so as the outlet horn is smaller than the opening in the flange, and there's some slop in the holes in the toilet mount, so 11" would be pushing it.
I am looking at MS604114CEFG
Is this the standard height or the higher?
Is this the elongated toilet or not
This is an elongated bowl,
It's higher then standard height. Sometimes called Universal, Comfort or chair height.
With the seat, it also meets ADA requirements.
http://www.terrylove.com/wc/toto/ms604_spec_sheet.jpg
Hi,
Can anyone tell me how will I know if the bolt holes from the toilets i currently have and the size from the back of my current two piece toilet to the wall will work with the Ultramax II?
I am desparate to swap out my 3 builder grade toilets but I am worried about holes not lining up and possibly having to replace some ceramic in all three bathrooms if the bolts don't align and the back of he 1 piece Ultramax II won't meet up with the back of the wall.
Hopefully everything has to meet standard size and this wil be a straight swap.
I just ordered an Ultramax II. Can someone tell me if the slope of the tank lid prevents a box of kleenex resting there?