1. Do I have to seal the bottom edge where Duroc meets floor with mesh tape?
2. Wht do I use for sealing joints? Same thinset used to set tile?
3. I have vapour barrier on walls and PVC pan liner... Can / should I use red guard?
It seems that red guard on the floor will prevent water that gets through the grout/tile to get through dry pack to liner? Tht correct? If red guard is used will it not hold water at grout level, which I think would not be good?
4. Red guard on walls seems more practical but I read somewhere it will trap mositure in if used on walls with vapor barrier.
5. I made my curb a little too wide and in stages ( long story/nightmare ...wholly f is a neo angle hard for a first time!!) I had to create the front ( outside ) of the curb last, after the top and inside had set... The outside is rough and damaged on outside edge in one spot. Not sure if I need to correct or just leave small void under tile? Thoughts? If I do want to smooth it out do I use same cement as original or tile thinset or something else? Pic attached
Thks in advance
I see the wrong fasteners used and missing blocking.
The holes for the water lines through the studs look to tight. I don't see any Donald Duck Clips clips on the wall studs either for the water lines.
Is your shower's mud bed all graded to the drain? It looks off some how - almost like it is draining to the front left side.... Maybe it's just the angle.
Before any waterproofing like RedGuard would be used we would first scratch coat the backer board and tape the seams. But your backer board is not being installed as spec'd - go look up the install instructions for this first.
FWIW, the mesh tape and thinset on the joints of CBU are to tie the sheets together to approximate (as close as possible) a mudded, monolithic wall - it isn't really for sealing things. You don't need it between the bottom edge of the walls and the pan if that area is blocked well - read the installation instructions.
IF you are going to use something like RedGard on it, the mesh and thinset must be done first and allowed to cure before you add the RedGard. Otherwise, you may just want to do it as you tile. Unlike drywall, you do NOT want your seam to end up with any hump, commonly used to hide the tape or mesh on the seam...you really want it nice and flat. Tiling over speedbumps is a major pain!
Personally, RedGard is okay for a wall or say around a niche, but I prefer other methods. I think the average DIY'er will have trouble getting the proper thickness of the layers when it is used for waterproofing and avoiding thin spots or pinholes. While not expensive, most do not buy and use the wet thickness gauge. The stuff MUST be applied at the right thickness, and no, thicker is not better! The thickness must be between the min/max stated in the instructions or you might as well not install it in the first place.
Your mentor like speed bumps. I think tons of showers have been butchered following this "Major Pain" of a shower...
Here is a photo of John Bridge's Speed Bump Design
Pretty sure there is a code (shower grading code TCNA & TTMAC) that requires no slope be greater than 1/2" per foot.
I think this is John Bridge's one and only curbless shower build. I might be wrong but I can find no other examples.
File under "How not to install Red Guard"
Coverage is far to thin.
Tie in to the tub deck is poorly done.
Almost perfect - but not quite.
Any opinion on doing kerdi DS on the shower pan and taping the floor wall joint with kerdi band, then redgarding the walls? I hate kerdi overlap!
No warranty from either company.
Not too worried about the warranty. I doubt either company has ever paid a warranty claim anyway. I'm more concerned if there is any chance it would work. I believe JB even mentioned using it before on a compound curved shower surface.
They all work if you are careful, follow the rules, and have good workmanship. Some are easier than others. With RedGard, there's a sweet spot, too little and it works as a decoupler, but isn't waterproof, too thick, and you risk other issues. Since it's hard to judge your exact wet thickness, and testing the cured thickness puts a hole in it, your best bet is an inexpensive wet thickness gauge and careful application.
Spot Setting Tiles. Careful what you believe from this retired tile hack. Too pay for gas for his fifth wheel John Bridge sells eBooks on shower building. The man does not set tile for a living anymore and when he did - he set much of the tile wrong, unless of course you think spot setting tile is right.
Any opinion on doing a kerdi pan and redgarding the walls of a shower?
Strong one Jim. - DON'T
If you go that route then do a Kerdi Pan and do the walls with Ardex 8+9. Then you can keep a ten year warranty.
Some fools here will tell you that Drywall is OK for a shower build. Don't listen to them.
Call on Ardex and ask. Our local Kerdi Salesman will say you loose the Kerdi warranty. True - but Ardex will tow the line and replace Schluter's with theirs. Now you have a complete warranty from one supplier covering the waterproofing, thin-set and grout. Schluter can't offer you that.
Only ones that can are Hydro Ban - they also make foam shower pans.
And Red Guard.
I think Durock has a clone system as well just out - put it look like shit.
Never used ardex products, but I see you recommending them frequently. I'll have to see if they are available locally. I'd rather trowel on a cement based product than spread that goopy red stuff anyway.