quote; The upper bolts or if there is a hanger bracket, it is hidden from view. Any info is appreciated. Thanks.
The "carrier" in the wall is a conventional one. The upper bolt holes are there, but since the 3000 did not use them they are inside the wall and just need 5/8" threaded studs and nuts to create a 4 bolt pattern. The upper hanger bar for the 3000 is attached to the wall studs and has to be removed if you convert to a conventional wall hung toilet.
Hello, not sure if I should reply to this thread or start a new one.
I have a Case 3000 toilet and the bar for the ballcock broke off. I had Rotorooter come out and they told me I needed to replace all of the insides of the toilet, total was $550 including labor. So I paid them and they replaced the insides, but the toilet now doesn't flush right (you have to pull up on the handle after flushing and the ball cock stays under water and does not shut off unless you take off the back and pull it up above the water). They replaced everything on the inside, but did not replace the trip lever assembly, and they used a tank ball that doesn't match and hooked it up to the existing lift wire. I just ordered a new trip lever assembly and tank ball kit (another $75) and plan on attaching that myself to see if it helps with having to pull up on the lever, but I will still have the problem with the ballcock not floating up once the tank is filled. I've tried adjusting the two adjustments on the ballcock stem but they don't seem to do anything, it's almost like the new parts are too loose at the pivoting parts and the rising water is causing a bind in them that prevents it from floating up. Any ideas? My water bill was $150 higher last month because of this toilet and I'm sick of throwing money at this problem with no results. Thank You!!
quote; My question is does anyone have some information on the bolt patter of the hanger? I know the lower bolts are 9 in. apart center to center
The basic carrier is a standard one, except they do not use the upper bolts for the toilet. It has a hanger bar that supports the toilet. You have to remove that from the wall then install the two top 5/8" rods with the proper nuts, washers, etc. into the carrier fitting. IF they are not assembled in the right order, you can, and probably will, crack the toilet.
How about a picture of what they put into the toilet, because they may have cobbled something up to make it fit.