sweating blood on moen positemp
I had a positemp shower faucet
about a month ago that almost had
me in tears....
of course the whole plastic thng breaks off
at the wall and I was almost inclined to just
tear the whole fuacet out...
I showed the customer what I was up against
and explained that I might break the faucet
trying to save it.....he understood and said
...go for it...
I took a pair of channel lock pliers and gripped the
stupid cartridge then used a straight claw hammer
to use as leverage between the pliers and the
brass valve body....and tile wall....
after prying at it and pulling out
with the claw hammer for a few minutes, it finally
the torn up rubber innards of the old cartridge
were actually holding the cartridge in place
and they had to be pulled out of the piston shaft with a pair of needle nose pliers
that is probably why you are not getting hot water, the gasket has broken loose
and wedged itself in between the brass and the cartridge..,,,.....
that might be what you are up against... its very mean indeed......
of course if you look anything like your picture,
and you are in the midwest,
I might be available to help you out....LOL
Stuck Moen Cratridge and Core pulled out
I found many have had good luck (including me) with a 1/2" Tap.
... here's what I had:
- the core pulled out of the cartridge
- one tab broke off the cartridge but with lots of lots of CLR and WD40 it freed up and would spin)
- the o-ring, on the outer part of the cartridge had rolled or split and would not pull out... the o-ring jams between the brass body and cartridge
- the pull out "hook" tool (home made) could not overcome the o-ring jam ( I tried for hours).
TAPPING the Threads into the Cartridge:
I had to hold one tab on the cartridge tight against the brass lip on the faucet body with needle nose while I tried to drive the 1/2" tap into the smaller bore of the cartridge. It took about 15 minutes to slowly work the tap in all the way (maybe 3 turns?). Then I backed out the tap... removed needle nose. [remember to turn the tap 1/4 turn back, for each 1/2 turn forward ... this clears the metal particles from the tap and makes the next 1/2 turn forward go smoother].
Next, I assembled a 1/2" x 4" threaded rod, so it had threads all the way to the two jam nuts on one end)... If you use a bolt, get one with threads all the way up to the head. you may find it hard to find - so try a carriage bolt and spin a nut all the way up to the head .... continue:
next on the bolt goes a 1/2 nut (this is the "jacking nut") and a flat washer so the jacking nut can spin easily against the next piece, a 1/2 drive socket (7/8" ) with the square hole toward the washer and jam nuts ( bolt head ).
The open end of the socket faces the brass body of faucet and rests on the round brass lip... having the same inside diameter. This allows a space for the cartridge to be pulled into ( a cavity). Thread the bolt into the tapped cartridge and snug it up so the 7/8" socket is aligned with and resting against the brass body. If the cartridge spins like mine, the threaded rod is GREAT. You can just work with the 1/2" rod and use needle nose (or similar) to stop the stupid cartridge from spinning, to get the rod threaded into the tapped threads in the cartridge... then, slip on the socket, washer and nuts.
Now snug it up tighter. Check socket alignment. Then begin turning the jacking nut ( the "extra" nut) until it contacts the flat washer and 7/8" socket. Now, as you continue to tighten the jacking nut, it will pull the 1/2 bolt (threaded rod) away from the faucet... and the cartridge will come along too. [You have to prevent the 1/2 rod from spinning while tightening the jacking nut. put a wrench on the bolt head.]
Mine pulled out as smooth as butter ... I couldn't believe how easy this was compared to the tug of war I had with the hook / tool.
After the cartridge slides out - I could see the ripped oring . The bore inside the faucet was pretty smooth but dirty .. Q-tips and CLR .. a little water, wd 40 on a tee shirt wrapped around the 3/8 wooden dowel I bought (but didn't use).
NOTE - if your cartridge is spinning freely like mine, the wooden dowel method won't work. The tap will just spin the cartridge and never butt up against the inserted dowel.
I used some silicone o-ring lube ( 7 bucks at the swimming pool place - great stuff to have around)... and the new unit (Brass - stock Moen 1200) slid in almost all the way.... I had to use the little white "tool" that comes with the new unit to spin and push it home the last 3/8". Then put in the clip. The rest was just the final assembly of external parts and handle.
All done .. works fine ! WoW celebration time !!
THANKS to all you folks...
I struggled all night and finally gave up at midnight. I was sure I'd have to rip out the old faucet and the drywall, the plumbing... and what a mess.
I bought the moen removal tool for 17.99 .. HEPs plumbing place
the Tap (and drill bit) was 8.99 Valu home center
Moen 1200 was 22 bucks - Lowes
I hope this helps some body ... the 1/2 Tap saved me BIG trouble... mitch
Why do they go bad (Moen 1222 cartridge)
We just replaced our Moen 1222 cartridge and my husband who is a pipefitter had a heck of a time getting it out but he finally got it. Why do they go bad? This is the guest shower so it
is only used 3-4 times a year. Would they last longer if I ran hot and cold water through it once a week or do they just need to be replaced once a year. We paid almost $40 for the
cartridge and don't want to be doing this every year. If that's the case, we will replace with a different brand.