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I need to rebuild 6 lowboy's. Would really like your input as to tips and tricks. Also. I'm not sure what rebuild kits to buy or if a common kit will work in all. Thanks in advance!
They are a combination of the following.
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...zz/kohler3.jpg
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...zz/kohler2.jpg
I wish you luck, and a whole lot of it.
Tip for working on Kohler stuff. OEM, OEM, OEM. It is nearly impossible to find any aftermarket parts that work correctly on their stuff.
The older, 3.5 gallon Rialtos were bad enough. That modified fluidmaster in the ones you show is a pain and a half to get parts for.
The Kohler rebuild kit for the old Rialtos runs ~$80 cost for a ballcock and flushvalve. For the ones that you show, I don't know the cost. I do know that Ferguson had me call a Kohler rep to try to get a kit. Wait time was a week or two. The customer decided to go with a new toilet instead.
The problem with that particular toilet was a leak on the 'sheath', the white plastic tube that surrounds the water inlet to the ballcock. A leak there will appear as a drip from the supply tube.
Flippin Kohler!
I service toilets al the live long day and I
wont touch one of these dogs....
the replacement partsalmost cost you as much as another toilet.
and they never work right..
you got troubles, and the best advice I can
give you is consider just bite the bullet and
save yourself tones of time and greif....
look first at what another toilet woudl cost you..
then weigh your options.
I would try and talk the customer out of rebuilding and into replacing or be sure not to guarantee them if you do rebuild.
OEM parts like dubldare said and MPM is right also.
Never liked rebuilding Kohler, ever.
I rebuild them with a standard 400A set to a low level and a Korky flapper.
And the success rate? Any tips on making it right the first time? I absolutely hate going back to job sites for redo's.Quote:
Originally Posted by hj
Three problems with a 400a:
1) Look at how close the ballcock would have to sit against that inside corner of the tank. A 400a's float will bind against the walls of the tank/edge of trip lever.
2) A 400a fills too fast for these lowboys. The turbulance in the bottom of the tank will prevent the flapper from closing. I've worked on toilets where this has been tried.
3) A 'sheath' type ballcock is required for potable water protection in this toilet, as the flapper actually sits lower than the rim of the bowl (which subjects the contents of the tank to waste products in a stopped-up bowl). Other brands use holes in the back of the bowl to maintain the C-L of the ballcock. Kohler uses the 'sheath' to leak water past the jamb nut on the shank of the ballcock, protecting the vacuum breaker (where that round kohler sticker is <!> ) on the tank fill tube. That's why that nut on the bottom has holes in it.
Eh, but what do we know.
fools rush in where wise men fear to tread.....
Like HJ said.....I too am sure it can be repaired , but
just figure on a few trips out there for those peskey
adjustments....and charge accordingly
or you will simply lose your ass or return trips ...
the last time I tried to buy something of that order
I think it was about $125.00....plus shipping.