Valve with degree marks.. What is it?

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502_Jimmy

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My house, built in 2004 has a well, approximately 380' deep. I have what looks like a valve with degree marks on the top of it, before the pressure switch.

What is this part called? Where can I find another? I searched but could not find anything directly realted to what it is.

Any help is appreciated.

Thank you.

John
 

502_Jimmy

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I'm having an issue with air in the lines. Only noticed in the toilets of the house. I have three bathrooms with two different toilet manufacturers, so its not just the toilet itself.

I'm trying to learn by reading this forum, on how to solve the issue. I am trying to get a working knowledge of the parts of my system. I don't know it bad, just need to know what it does to determine if its bad... I lived in a house with a well for 26 years before moving to my new house. I replaced all the parts of it over the years and never had this valve in my application.

I'm just curious as to what it does.

I'll have to get a picture tonight.

Thank you.

John
 

502_Jimmy

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And let me clarify, when I say degree marks, I mean 0º, 10º, 20º, 30º. Not temperature degree marks.

Rotates from one side to the other. 0º being in the middle.
 

Valveman

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New one for me. Maybe someone else can help. Or I will be waiting for a picture. Probably not going to help with having too much air though. What kind of tank do you have?
 

Valveman

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Thats another new one for me. I don't know of any galv tanks that have bladders. Is there only one pipe going to the tank or are there two pipes going to the tank? If it is a galv tank, there should be two pipes and also be a fitting about half way up the tank. That would be your Air Volume Control and also your problem.
 

502_Jimmy

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Well, I do believe it has two fittings, I'm likely wrong on the bladder part.

Does this type of tank have an advantage or disadvantage to a bladder style tank? Which would be better?

I'll take a look tonight. Thank you for your help with this. :)
 

Valveman

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Maintaining the correct air charge has always been the major problem with galv tanks. You should have a check valve before the tank with a Schrader valve (like a car tire has). Then there is a bleeder orifice in the well and a Air Volume Control half way up the tank. All 4 of these things must work perfectly to maintain the correct air charge. Bladder tanks give less trouble because they do not have these 4 wearable components.

You need a new AVC. Unscrew the old one from half way up the tank and you will see what I mean. I will bet the float that should be on the inside of the tank connected to the AVC has rusted off and fell in the tank.
 

502_Jimmy

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Thanks!

I'll do a search on the procedure for changing this valve. Your help is much appreciated.
 

502_Jimmy

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Also, can I change to a bladder style tank?

This would seemingly alleviate the problems with this system..
 

Valveman

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Yes you can switch to a bladder tank. The air charge system may need to be removed from down hole. You need to remove the check valve before the pressure tank anyway, and most times this will keep the bleeder down in the well from working. However, if the bleeder won't stay closed, it needed replacing anyway. Then you need to pull the pump up about 5' to get to the bleeder and just plug it off, as you don't need it with a bladder tank.
 

Schrammdriller

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You probably do not need to lift the pump, the valve you have is likely a Well-mate Micronizer. This is a venturi type valve that admits air to a plain tank. It does not require a bleed down valve. There were some others made also.

It is adjustable. You should be able to feel air being drawn in when the pump is moving more than 5GPM between about 10 and 60 psi.

You must experiment with adjustments to obtain the correct amount of air admitted. Also you can bleed off the excess air with the air control valve mentioned earlier.
 

Speedbump

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I would say since you have the Micronizer, you don't have an air maker in the well. Simply taking out your galvanized tank and the Micronizer, would allow you to add a Bladder Tank.

bob...
 
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502_Jimmy

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Thank you, Thank you!!

I would have been lost without this forum. All the help and advice is sincerely appreciated!

John
 

502_Jimmy

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Again, thank you for all the help.

One last question though. I am going from a 42 gallon galvanized tank to a 44 gallon bladder tank that I am picking up today. Well-X-Trol brand. (I'm sorry I couldn't order from you guys, I am having lots of air the in lines issues, and want to get this fixed ASAP)

From what I've read, I'll be picking up some extra capacity in the tank due to the differing design. Does this sound ok? It shouldn't pose any problems that I know of. Hopefully it will keep the pump from cycling as much. Correct?

Thank you!!

John
 

Valveman

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You can switch to a bladder tank but, I would make sure you didn't have the old style galv tank and Micronizer for a reason. A lot of times these are installed because you have sulfur or something else in the water. Adding air to the system with a Micronizer may be what is keeping you from experiencing a rotten egg smell in your water. When you switch to a bladder tank, the water is never exposed to air. The air is what takes the smell out of the water in some cases. You might want to just replace the Air Volume Control and stay with the galv tank if this is the case.
 

502_Jimmy

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I think I do have some sulfur in the water. Excellent point. I did not know that information. :eek:

Is this ACV right on the front of the tank? The front of the tank has something with a schrader valve on it. Is this the ACV?

To replace it, I drain the water, pull the valve, install new, and then how much air do I add?

Thank you for the help.
 
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