Broken screw on overflow pipe

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Donny BeGood

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I was removing the two screws that holds on a chrome overflow pipe cover for a bathtub and one of the screws has broken off. It is still attached to the screw hole in the PVC pipe. All that is left of the corroded metal screw is a small sharp point that won't come out. It is probably only about 1/8-1/4 inch long and it is pretty much impossible to grab onto it with anything. There is no access to it from the back side. Should I try to grind it down flat with a dremel type grinding bit and then try to remove it with a screw extractor? Also, the gasket looks somewhat dry and cracked (20 years old). Will that be easy to replace keeping in mind the only access will be from the overflow opening on the tub.
 

Jadnashua

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An easyout may be the best choice. You can normally fold or distort a new gasket through the hole from the front. Just don't drop it!
 

hj

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The plastic is a LOT softer than the metal, so if you do NOT drill or use and extractor PERFECTLY, you WILL damage the overflow fitting. The screw must have been seriously deteriorated to break off, since the plastic should NOT have held it tightly. I cannot tell you how I would remove the screw, because I do not know without seeing the actual situation, although I might get an overflow plate with a single center hole and use a long screw, or bolt, to fasten it through the back of the overflow fitting.
 
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philbrunet

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Hi,

I have a similar situation.
The two screws bolted inside the PVC tubing are stock because their heads fell off by themselves after years rusting.
This is a case of prolongated rusting. Also, the sheared surface is conic, making drilling very difficult. Some filing might be required to flatten the surfaces.

I am worried that using a screw extractor drill bit to drill the initial holes in which to insert the screw extractor will strip the thread inside the PVC. That is because there is no way the bolt is stock hard enough in the plastic thread to resist the rotation force applied by the drill. If anything, the bolt will start rotating during drilling and strip the PVC thread, then it is game over. We are not talking a bolt stock in a metal part.

I do not understand what could be the solution using an adaptor, therefore bypassing these two holes and fixing the cover in an other way. There is no undercut inside the PVC tubing to allow that.

Then drilling in the back of the PVC tubing with a long screw might cause water infiltration unless you put some silicon on the tip of the screw to seal it.

DSCN6332.jpg
 

Hackney plumbing

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If you have access from the back I would cut that out and replace it. Dont bother trying to get the screws out.
 

hj

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quote; Then drilling in the back of the PVC tubing with a long screw might cause water infiltration unless you put some silicon on the tip of the screw to seal it.

1. It would be water exfiltration.
2. It would be almost impossible for water to reach the screw hole in the rear of the fitting, because the plate would limit the flow in and the water would have to back up in the overflow fitting, (and also the tub", to reach that level.
3. Kohler has some drains for special tubs that come with the hole tapped in the back of the overflow, so it is NOT some handyman idea.
4. you might drill a very small hole in the center of the bolts, then use one of the "extractor drill bits", that rotate in reverse to try to remove them.
 

philbrunet

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First of all, thanks for your input Hackney plumbing and hj.

quote; Then drilling in the back of the PVC tubing with a long screw might cause water infiltration unless you put some silicon on the tip of the screw to seal it.

1. It would be water exfiltration.
2. It would be almost impossible for water to reach the screw hole in the rear of the fitting, because the plate would limit the flow in and the water would have to back up in the overflow fitting, (and also the tub", to reach that level.
3. Kohler has some drains for special tubs that come with the hole tapped in the back of the overflow, so it is NOT some handyman idea.
4. you might drill a very small hole in the center of the bolts, then use one of the "extractor drill bits", that rotate in reverse to try to remove them.

1. ok for the terminology
2. point taken
3. good to know this method is used
4. the problem is the pipe is not fixed properly inside the wall and moves in when push while drilling. I wouls have to restrict it when my finger then drilling just beside. What about stripping the thread while drille the hole, because of the force applied to the PVC?

Tks.
 

hj

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You might be able to use a small "C" clamp to stabilize the pipe while working on it. That would also hold it good enough so an extracting bit might grab the screw.
 

philbrunet

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The results...
Since this is an apartment, the landlord came to fix it himself. He is an retired plumber and I did not want to risk damaging the PVC piping.

1) He tried drilling into the screw strategy.
The screws were harder than any tool bits.
Clamping the loose PVC tube to the tub using the vice grip did not really help drilling.
The drill bit just kept being swept aside.

2) Solution
He left alone the two screws, then using longer screws with a conic end, he drilling on an angle to go grap into the PVC walls around the stocked screw. I think the screws self tapped. That did it for a patch job until a new tub is install one day.
This solution prevented any holes through the PVC pipe.
 

Shinstig8r

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After my plumber told me that I would have to replace the whole overflow pipe and cost hundreds of dollars, I decided to just buy some Sugru and stick the cap into place (being careful to leave the opening to the pipe open) and even stuck the new screws (which were cut down with bolt cutters because the rusted stubs were in the way) into the holes to leave a nice finished look. It doesn't even look any different than before. If I ever have to snake this tub, I can just use a blade to cut the cap off, snake it, and reapply some new Sugru. If you don't know what Sugru is, you have to check it out. It is truly a miracle product that is a moldable silicone rubber that sticks to practically anything and is strong, durable, waterproof, heatproof, etc. It maybe a little pricey for what it is, but the alternative is outrageous in comparison for a multitude of applications.
 

jrv3

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Hi, I recently encountered the same problem and wanted to share my solution. Drilling/extracting isn't really an option as the original screw broke off too narrow to drill. I tried going in at an angle, but then the drill bit started to hit the plastic surround, so stopped I right there. What I have in mind is to use
Shinstig8r's Sugru idea with the two-hole adapter plate that comes with a single hole overflow cover. The adapter plate should spread across the outermost part of the hole and stick right to the tub. Then use a shorter screw through the cover to the adapter plate.
 

tracy smith

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Hi, I recently encountered the same problem and wanted to share my solution. Drilling/extracting isn't really an option as the original screw broke off too narrow to drill. I tried going in at an angle, but then the drill bit started to hit the plastic surround, so stopped I right there. What I have in mind is to use
Shinstig8r's Sugru idea with the two-hole adapter plate that comes with a single hole overflow cover. The adapter plate should spread across the outermost part of the hole and stick right to the tub. Then use a shorter screw through the cover to the adapter plate.


How does this fix prevent water from getting between the gasket and the tub? You only tightened the adapter to the overflow plate, but the pipe is still loose behind it all.
 

Jeff H Young

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never saw screw extractors so small. I could have easily held the overflow while drillingand most likly would have drilled single hole in center . FYI I dont put a lot of trust in a tub overflow especially one I didnt install or test. To just fill tubs with out any thought to a leak at overflow is something you should be able to do but being in the buisness. I never fully trust them Its a very very common place for a leak .
 

EmillyB

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I was removing the two screws that holds on a chrome overflow pipe cover for a bathtub and one of the screws has broken off. It is still attached to the screw hole in the PVC pipe. All that is left of the corroded metal screw is a small sharp point that won't come out. It is probably only about 1/8-1/4 inch long and it is pretty much impossible to grab onto it with anything. There is no access to it from the back side. Should I try to grind it down flat with a dremel type grinding bit and then try to remove it with a screw extractor? Also, the gasket looks somewhat dry and cracked (20 years old). Will that be easy to replace keeping in mind the only access will be from the overflow opening on the tub.
Today I was replacing the faceplate on my tub overflow drain as well. When I removed the old cover, the second screwhead broke off. Long story short, I sprayed some WD40 on the screw area, tried to tap on the metal a little bit to loosen, then took cutting pliers and get a good grip on the metal, holding the pliers about 45 degrees from the screw. I was able to starting turning the pliers and rotate the screw counter clockwise thanks to the grip the pliers had and the lubricant. I feel this was a solid solution and wanted to share. Good luck!
 

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